For 400 years, this was the only link between the two halves of the city, and it is still packed from dawn to dusk to this day, but now those that cross the bridge are largely tourists enjoying the view. Commissioned by King Karel (Charles) IV (r.1346-78) in 1357 to replace its predecessor swept away by floods in 1342, and designed by court architect Peter Parler, this masterpiece of engineering took nearly 50 years to complete.

The 516m long, 10m wide sandstone-bridge is supported by 16 piers that, according to legend, owe their strength and longevity to the eggs that were mixed into the mortar that holds them together. The bridge quickly became a site of great importance and was the setting for trading, law courts, jousting, and even warfare.

• 1393: Sv.Jan Nepomucký (St.John of Nepomuk) is thrown to his martyrdom bound and gagged from the bridge
• 1620: King Fridrich Falcký (Frederick of the Palantine r.1619-1620) crosses the bridge as part of his continued flight from the battlefield at Bílá Hora (White Mountain) ending his short reign and securing the nickname Winter King
• 1648: Students of the university and the residents of the Jewish ghetto hold the bridge defending the city from invading Swedish troops.

What draws the crowd here however is the open-air gallery of Baroque statues that has evolved here over the centuries. The first, a 1683 bronze statue of Sv.Jan Nepomucký by J.Brokoff, is said to mark the spot from where King Václav (Wenceslas) IV (r.1378-1419) had the queens confessor drowned supposedly for refusing to divulge the queen’s secrets or even for having an affair with the queen, but more likely due to a political disagreement over the confirmation of the new Abbot of Kladruby. The statue was placed here by the Jesuits as part of a campaign to get this martyred bishop canonised, and should be rubbed for good luck. The success of this campaign lead to many other statues being added, including some from leading Czech sculptors M.B.Braun and F.M.Brokoff; the rest are largely copies of inferior 19th-century sandstone works, the badly-worn originals of which are on display in the Lapidárium at Holešovice. One curiosity is the 1696 bronze cross with a Hebrew Inscription reading, "Holy, Holy, Holy God", which, according to legend, was erected at the order of the court by a Jew who had blasphemed against the cross.

The bridge is framed by imposing towers that are well worth a look. The tower in Staré Město (Old Town) is decorated on the landward side with the ornate coats of arms that were part of Parler’s original decorations while the riverward side still shows scars from the battle against the Swedes. The smaller of the two towers in Malá Strana (Little Quarter) is the last remnant of the 1170 Judith Bridge, which spanned the river here until the floods of 1342. Both towers are climbable and offer an excellent opportunity to escape the crowds.

"Excuse me, do you speak English?" the woman asked.
"Why yes," I replied. "Do you need any help?"
"Yes," said the woman. "I was wondering why all those people were trying to touch the brass plate on the statue of John Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge?"
"I believe they think it will bring good luck to them," I answered.
"Is that true?" she asked.
"Have you seen the cross?" I asked her.
"No!"
Then I led her 20 metres past the statue to the low stone sidewall which contains the old Catholic cross on which the Czechs make their wish and which is said to mark the actual place from which he was thrown and on striking the water of the Vltava, exploded into bright stars.
"How did you know this was here?" she asked.
"Because this is my home," I answered. So I bid her farewell and walked back through the crowd.

CHARLES BRIDGE (Karluv Most)

Our walk across this bridge became an unexpected attraction in itself. We read about the statues in advance, expecting to see them from the corner of our eye while walking towards the castle. What the guide said was a ten-minute walk across became a rich experience taking more than an hour.

To begin with, once arriving on the bridge, the castle side, its walls and spires are so awesome that you are pulled into focus. On the bridge, mesmerized by the beauty of what lies on the other side, you almost miss the Old Town Bridge Tower on your left and the statue of Charles IV on the right. As you look back towards the old town you see the glorious skyline whose lanes and squares you’ve just been enchanted with. Nothing can prepare you for the overwhelming experience as you do a 360-degree turn and take in the Glory and Majesty of this place called Prague.

What was created for practical purposes of allowing access above flood waters between two points for the local townsfolk, eventually became a landmark attraction and a historical monument renamed in the late 19th century to honor Charles the 4th, the Holy Roman Emperor.

The wonderful treat about walking across this Gothic bridge is that it’s a people bridge with no motor traffic. One can take their time viewing the thirty Baroque statues and sculptural groups that line the sides (15 per side). While several of these are copies (many of the originals were moved to museums in and around the Czech Republic) they all have a warm and wonderful patina and each one has a history behind it.

My favorite, on the right side, is a Crucifixion scene that includes a large 17th century Hebrew inscription (see the photo below). A rich Czech Jew that was accused of blasphemy paid for this. Can’t wait for my friend Marty to translate the inscription – I’ll share it when I know. Further down, midway, is a bronze (dated 1863, the oldest original work on the bridge) honoring a local Martyr. St. John of Nepomuk was drowned at this spot three centuries before on the orders of King Wenceslas IV. Supposedly the priest was executed for refusing to reveal the confessions of the king’s wife. Actually, his offence was political, having sided with the archbishop in a dispute with the good king.

Beyond, left side, is an 18th Century statue of St. Lutgard kissing the wounds of Christ. Further, before you reach the two Gothic Towers connected by an arch welcoming you to Mala Strana, is a gruesome sculptural grouping with an intimidating view of Christians being held captive and guarded by a Turkish jailer, armed by a scimitar and barbed whip.

An hour later, not distracted by the artists and vendors selling their wares between the various statues, we arrived at the Mala Strana Gate.

(I’ll write a separate entry on the Castle)

Take a walk on Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) where you`ll find a lot of ex-pat`s and artists selling all kinds of art. You get wondefull pictures of the city for less than 5-10 dollars and all sorts of crafts. Also it offers a beautiful view of the Palace on top of the hill. (Pass by again later at night to see the palace lit up!)

This beautiful bridge is made all the more memorable by the many portrait artists that work on it. Sitting along the bridge they will draw you in about ten minutes for $10. There are also many pictures of the city available so why not have a browse?