Western heritage.
One of the greatest achievements of Gothic architecture, Notre Dame,
first large gothic cathedral, was begun in 1163. For centuries, it has been
center of French life, so much so that French highway markers measure kilometers
from Notre Dame. "Kilometer zero" is marked on Place du
Parvis. Crusaders prayed here. Napoleon crowned himself
emperor (1804), and many of us remember requiem mass for
Charles de Gaulle (1970). An important
church in Christendom, it should offer better tours!
Is change coming?
We found Notre Dame gleaming white in April sun. Its recent bath should be
only the beginning. Inside, markers in multiple languages would help folk to identify
the sparse artwork. (The church was sacked during the Revolution.) I could identify the statue of Joan of Arc.
Back home, I visited the website and found no discussion of artwork or artefacts but the Crown of Thorns and chunk of Cross in the Treasury and the pieta prescribed
by Louis XIII and a bronze crucifix. You can check here for history of
the architecture and artefacts. I wanted to buy a book, but didn’t see any stall. There is a bookstore, I understand, but I didn’t
see it because of the crowd. With a few hundred people inside, an attendant or sign
should have pointed the way. I understand that artwork has been destroyed, but what about the historic congregation?
Who attended?
Henry VI of England was crowned here, 1430. Mary Stuart, before she was Queen of
Scots, was married here to Francois II. Who’s buried here? I know
where Wilhelm II, Martin Luther, and Philipp Melancthon are buried in the Castle Church
in Wittenberg only because I visited there, but I believed we were herded through
Notre Dame without passing tombs until I read they were removed in 1699--considered out of style! (What?) I searched one-by-one for historic figures
who might be here. ( I found Cardinal Richelieu at the Sorbonne!) I know that Hugo’s
Hunchback renewed interest in the cathedral when it was about to be torn down, but not if
Hugo belonged to the congregation. I visit churches for these details! A cathedral
is more than artwork; it’s a community.
Still a marvel!
Most stained glass was removed (18th Century--just to let in light!), but rose windows are
original.
My favorite decoration is over the choir stalls.
A portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas is easy to identify, even in Latin, as well as a statue of
first bishop and architect of Notre Dame, Maurice de Sully, who ordered destruction of the
Roman basilica on the site and built the cathedral.
Good advice
Go on a weekday and ask questions. The website says people are there to talk to. (I’m
not sure this doesn’t mean "talk about faith.") A mass would be memorable, since Notre Dame is proud of its innovative choirs and offers several concerts and
masses each day. The Treasury can be visited for a small fee.