It’s Vatican day for our traveling party of six, but first, a brief diversion across the Tiber just minutes from our hotel to the Castel Sant’Angelo.
According to legend, the castle got its name during the plague of 590, when Pope Gregory the Great had a vision of an angel sheathing his sword atop the structure’s stone ramparts, said to be a sign of granted grace. The plague would run its course shortly thereafter, but not before half the population of Europe had perished.
Built along the banks of the Tiber at the behest of the Emperor Hadrian (117-138) as a mausoleum for himself and Roman Emperors that would follow, the original incarnation of Castel Sant’Angelo was completed in 139 by his successor, Antoninus Pius, and was linked to the Tiber’s south banks by the Pons Aelius, known today as the Ponte Sant’Angelo. In 271, the castle was annexed into a defense system designed by Aurelian, transforming the site from tomb to fortress.
The cylindrical fortress sits atop an immense square base. Circular towers at each corner bear the names of Saints Matthew, John, Mark, and Luke. Inside, three huge halls that once housed the imperial tombs are stacked one atop the other. The rooftop terrace, open to visitors, offers terrific views of the city and is dominated by the bronze statue of the Archangel Michael by Flemish sculptor Peiter Antoon Versschaffelt, added in 1752.
Today, the structure houses the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo and its collections of Renaissance paintings, ceramics, and antique military weaponry. Visitors ascend through the famous spiral ramp that winds its way for nearly 400 feet. The castle whispers clues of its checkered past as we navigate its labrynth of stairs, dank cells, narrow hallways, inner courtyards, frescoed great halls, and papal apartments.
For nearly 1,000 years, it served as a refuge for popes when they were under seige. In 1277, Nicholas II constructed il Passetto, an arcaded passageway linking it to the Vatican and St. Peter’s Cathedral. Luxurious papal apartments were added in Renaissance times. During Italy’s Risorgimento period in the mid-19th century, political prisioners were held here.
The bridge’s parapets collapsed in the mid-15th century, and its present layout, complete with spectacular statues flanking each side, was completed under the direction of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. An etching by the famous Italian engraver Giovanni Battista Piranesi shows the castle prior to restorations begun late in the 19th century, which resulted in its current configuration. Additional restorations to the moats and bastions occurred in the mid-1930s.
Some might categorize the Castel Sant’Angelo as a second-tier attraction behind the Colosseum, the Forum, Vatican City, the Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain. Nonetheless, its unique place in Rome’s history, coupled with the museum and scenic views afforded by the upper terrace, make this a site most won’t want to miss. In addition, from late June through mid-August, Italy’s Ministry of Cultural Heritage sponsors a series of live performances, held nightly in this unique setting.