9 miles round trip, elevation change 3060 feet descent and ascent. Easy down, difficult up.
Bright Angel Trail has an interesting history. The trail itself is an old one, used for centuries by Havasupai Indians to reach their gardens. It was named Bright Angel after the creek and canyon named by intrepid Colorado River runner John Wesley Powell.
In the 1890s miner Ralph Cameron improved the trail, gained control of it, changed its name to Cameron Trail and began charging $1 toll. Alternate trails such as Kaibab Trail (east) and Hermit’s Trail (west) were developed to avoid the toll. After lengthy legal battles, the trail was wrested from Cameron by Coconino County in 1928. It was renamed Bright Angel in 1937.
The hike to Indian Gardens and back on Bright Angel is one hefty and memorable hike. Bob and I, younger and more foolish in 1988 during our first visit to the Grand Canyon, hiked down to Indian Gardens from the South Rim, starting early morning. The popular Bright Angel trail, though grooved, dusty, and manured by heavy mule use, was a breeze to descend, with wonderful vistas around every bend. The elevation at Indian Gardens is 3,800 feet, still about 1,400 feet above the Colorado River, but almost three quarters of the way to the canyon floor.
After arriving at Indian Gardens, still full of energy, we were tempted to hike out to Plateau Point. But we wisely changed our minds, wandering around the campground and picnic area, visiting the small ranger station, and watching mule trains come and go. It was pleasant to sit and eat our packed lunches under the cottonwood trees next to Garden Creek. We felt well-rested and ready for the uphill climb, though the weather was warmer than we realized beyond our shady oasis.
But hiking back up under the brutal summer sun that afternoon was no picnic, especially that excruciating last mile. Step after exhausting step, it seemed like we’d
never reach the trailhead. We did, though, and promptly staggered into our camper and fell soundly asleep for the rest of the day, that whole night, and most of the next morning.
We’d been careful to wear wide-brimmed hats, wet bandanas, and good hiking boots. We brought enough water and refilled our canteens at the rest houses along the trail. In spite of our precautions, I was actually nauseous at our hike’s completion, and we were both about as wore out as we’d ever been.
Once we’d recovered enough to converse with one another, we agreed that if we
ever went down into the Canyon again, we’d hike down but ascend by mule. Several groups had passed us as we were struggling uphill, looking so comfy just sitting in their saddles while the mules did all the work. Of course that’s not the way it works: it’s not quite as easy as it looks, and if you want to ride mules up, first you have to ride them down.