I started my pedal exploration at Hotel Adler (see separate entry), which has a great location in Niederdorf, a hip and trendy area just north of the Limmat River. I spent some time window-shopping in Niederdorf, ogling the latest fashions, jewelry, and shoes. I loved the old buildings, as well as the narrow stone streets with hidden treasures – fountains, squares, monuments – tucked away in obscure corners.

A couple interesting spots in Niederdorf include a pub and restaurant called Oepfelchammer, or Apple Storage, on Rindermarkt street. There is a local tradition to try to climb up and hang upside-down from the wooden ceiling beam, and drink without spilling. I think it’s a college student thing. It was supposedly a hangout of author Gottfried Keller as well. On nearby by Napfgasse street, there is a bright and colorful shop filled with flowers called Schober Café. It has best hot chocolate around, with real melted chocolate and not powder.

Eventually I wandered down to the Limmat River, where ducks and gigantic white swans floated peacefully in the light snow. I stopped for a strong coffee next to the river. As I sipped, I scanned the tops of ancient churches and government buildings, which I learned more about on a Walking Tour of Old Town that I took later in the afternoon (see separate entry).

Across the river from the café and a couple blocks up was the famous and exclusive shopping street called Bahnhofstrasse, where I couldn’t even afford to window shop! Nearby was the St. Peter church and clock tower (largest clock face in Europe), and my favorite discovery was a partially frozen fountain, still struggling to put out some water.

Dinner that first night was at Restaurant SwissChuchi, located at Hotel Adler. I ordered the Raclette, a Swiss classic. It took me forever to melt pieces of cheese on an electric grill and spread it on my selection of potatoes, pickles, pearl onions, and pear slices. It was an interesting experience, which I think takes some practice, and which I found to be a little expensive at CHF23. SwissChuchi also had fondue and a few other dishes. The service was OK.

When I returned to Zürich a week later, of course more last-chance shopping in Niederdorf was in order. This time for dinner, my shopping pals and I choose a fast-food Greek place just diagonal from Hotel Adler. Here we found great service and tasty, inexpensive food. The employees were extremely amused by us – I’m not sure what we did, but I’m sure it was some cultural embarrassment that I don’t want to know about.