Description: If you’re here from April–October, you’ll probably have lots of company. Over 2.5 million people visit Zion each year, more than enough to overwhelm the narrow scenic drive that takes you up the canyon carved out by the Virgin River. Ten years ago, the park service instituted a seasonal mandatory shuttle system, the only way to reach Scenic Drive above the Junction in high season.
It appears to be a huge success. The buses run every 6-10 minutes for the majority of a summer day, usually with enough room to get everyone at a stop (download the latest
Zion Park Guide from the Park services for full details on the schedule, plus a really complete introduction to Zion). Since only buses are on the Drive, your view is free of traffic and car noise (except for the occasional bus headed the other way). No one has to keep an eye on the road, and everyone can press up against the windows as one gorgeous cliff after another passes by.
Although a ranger-led shuttle tour leaves each morning at nine, some drivers essentially double as ranger/naturalists. During our stay, we were always happy to get on Tim’s bus: he struck a perfect balance between providing interesting and helping information, and leaving the PA system quiet to take in the spectacular scenery. Styles vary widely among the drivers, though: others barely announce the stops.
The shuttle system actually has two pieces: since parking within the park is pretty limited, one route covers Springdale and brings passengers to the visitor center; a second route then circles up and down the canyon. We headed into the park before 7 am, early enough to be confident we could pass the Center for one of the limited number of spots at the Junction. We spent 20 minutes waiting for the morning’s second shuttle (a hiker’s special leaves at 5:30 am), giving us a chance to watch the sun illuminate the temples atop the western wall and gradually work its way down the sandstone faces closer to the canyon’s floor.
Our shuttle was mostly empty, and we rode in silence to Zion Lodge for an hearty breakfast before hiking off to the Emerald Pools. Later, we took the bus back down the canyon to return to our car and head to Zion Adventure Company to get outfitted for our Narrows hike. By the time we were ready, we parked at the visitor’s center to be safe (it was now near lunchtime), and rode from the Center to the road’s end at Temple of Sinawava in the somewhat harsher light of midday.
If you’re planning to take the bus primarily as a sightseeing tour down the length of the canyon, I’d suggest traveling in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is better for bringing out the canyon’s coloration. Given the midday heat, hiking early and riding later makes sense, but if that timing doesn’t work for you, don’t let it stop you.
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