Zagreb (General)

SaraP
SaraP
First Reviewer
5 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
2
Reviews
9
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Editor Pick

The Almighty Capital

  • April 22, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by dangaroo from Warsaw, Poland
Zagreb the wonderful capital of Croatia is one of my favourite European cities, cold in the winter and warm most of the rest of the year, it's a great place to spend afternoons outside the cafes and bars that line the cobbled streets. The city which has become popular with tourists in recent years has seen numerous budget options pop up in the form of hostels and the days of having to stay in the dour HI hostel nicknamed "The Prison Hostel" for its miserable staff and lack of light has long gone.

To compliment the wonderful choice of places to wine and dine is a fine selection of magnificent buildings and statues from the stunning National Theatre through to the horse statue on Trg Jelacic (Jelacic Square), the tourist information is extremely helpful to tourists and well-prepared. Zagreb has three other very worthy districts the arty streets of Tkalciceva, the historic museum and church filled area of Gornji Grad which is very quaint but a little bit too busy with tourists sometimes. Last but not least those with power left in their legs should climb up to Mirogoj, a cemetery at the base of Mt Medvenica with a stunning range of well sculptured tombs and an impressive wall. This is a very peaceful area and rates as one of the best cemeteries in Europe, even if you're too lazy to climb - at least hop on the 106 bus.

For nightlife buffs, the choices are excellent - visit the restaurants and hip pubs of the oldy worldy Tkalciceva, the dance clubs around Maksimir Park which really get very lively on summer nights, the factory come alternative music venue of Tvornica which is massive with two stages and cheap beer in plastic cups.

Zagreb roads are often being re-built but that shouldn't let you be put off by exploring the outskirts a little bit, there's numerous parks with fountains which make a shady change from the blinding summer sun. Dinamo Zagreb's stadium on the way to the zoo is home to some very interesting graffiti, as is the road between the train station and the bus station (although it's looking a bit worse for wear of late)

Public transport in Zagreb is fairly modern with a new range of trams and buses, it is forbidden to take dogs but there are not many inspectors so it is likely that the driver will only ask you to get off, if you are travelling with one.

There are numerous residential areas which seem a little seperated from the city by small country lanes, they are still considered part of the city and many of them are always under construction. This is because during the Balkan War, there was a large population exchange with people swapping houses and land to get out of a country they would be in trouble in - ethnic croats moving out of bosnia and serbia and vice-versa. The houses or land they have inherited often had little in the way of infrastructure, so are continuously updated when the owner has the money - the fact that some people are doing better than others is evident in the size, colour, progression and designs of the houses.

I find Zagreb fascinating and relaxing but at the same time it manages to remain a working and student city. This is why I find it better than the average Croatian tourist destination.
Editor Pick

Zagreb outdoors - the city as a gallery

  • July 21, 2003
  • Rated 4 of 5 by SaraP from London, England
Zagreb outdoors - the city as a gallery

If you're out and about, mooching around the city, this is perfect way to brush up on your history and see it in context . . . certainly there as as many celebrated Croatian figures as you could possibly want to see in the "flesh" and this is a much nicer way than visiting an indoor museum and wasting good weather! The variety is enormous (and spread out) :

There are rulers and fighters . . . Coming out of the railway station onto Trg Kralja Tomislava, you'll see King Tomislav (photo attached to history entry below), the first king of medieval Croatia, who ruled from 910 and 928, on horseback (one raised hoof traditionally means the rider was injured in battle -- 2 raised means s/he died in battle). There are several St Georges, including one outside the Faculty of Law, just up from Tomislava Sq, and another as you pass through the "Stone Gate" chapel (see entry below about the Upper Town), either skewering or already victorious over their respective dragons.

There are writers . . . including a curious bench-bound silvery man, Antun Matos, with an improbably sized moustache and a welcoming air, a spookily real full-sized woman, Marija Zagorda, standing beneath a sundial just beyond St George (see photo below).

There are politicians... best of all is Vecesslav Holjevac who stands outside the National Library, hands in the pockets of his ultra-smooth bronzed coat -- he was an anti-fascist major, apparently smooth of tongue in life and now of appearance in immortality . . .

. . . and there is Life, to be specific the mesmerising "Well of Life", by Ivan Mestrovic, in front of the National Theatre, a bright green circular construction of struggling or thriving figures in various stages of aging and activity, which is itself surrounded by another, outer circle of seats from which to rest and survey the images depicted on the well (see photo below).

Lastly, look out for Madonna outside the cathedral -- all golden and sparkling in the sunshine, looking down from on high. She's rather irreligiously in the middle of a mini-roundabout, but, nonetheless, the people of Zagreb bow their heads to her as they walk past.

I hope the photos below help to inspire and to demonstrate the variety and effort to which the city has gone -- it's certainly worth taking the trouble to search these out while you're a-wanderin' and, as you'd probably have come across almost all of them in any event, I hope this is a guide to who they are and why they're here.

From journal Capital Croatia - Zagreb in springtime

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