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Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site

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J&J Reid
J&J Reid
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Editor Pick

Hopewell Cape and the Art of the Tides

  • June 25, 2009
  • Rated 4 of 5 by BawBaw from Small Town, West Virginia
Hopewell Cape and the Art of the Tides

Imagine a shoreline with stark cliffs reaching into the sea. Include a mixed woodland full of assorted flora and fauna--all growing down to the cliff’s edge. Then add glimpses of trees dwarfed by their confinement to various nooks and crannies within the cliff face.

Now imagine a tidal cycle with an average difference of 10-to-14 meters between high and low tides eroding the rocky shoreline. Add the force of wind, rain, and the temperature extremes of the North. And for good measure, toss in Native legends featuring a tyrannical whale king, rebellious human slaves, and the sort of punishment one might expect for acts of rebellion.

The result of this intriguing recipe is Hopewell Cape, an awe-inspiring segment of New Brunswick’s Bay of Fundy coastline. Situated where a finger of the Bay narrows into the tidal Petitcodiac River, the cape features a series of "flowerpot rocks," and these invite flights of fancy by their thousands of visitors. These rocks are the primary focus of the Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site.

The Site

Himself, Yours Truly, and my 80-year-old mother visited Hopewell Rocks on two successive days in late September 2005. The two visits allowed us to appreciate the views offered at both low and high tide, a strategy we recommend to others. There is much more to Hopewell Rock than just the rocks themselves, and given the capriciousness of the weather, you may need two separate visits to explore the park’s attractions with any degree of comfort.

The Interpretive Center includes a gift shop, very modern and clean washroom facilities, an informative introduction to the history and geology of the area, and a cafeteria (the High Tide Café) with a limited menu but generally good food. The hot dishes we tried included an excellent seafood chowder and fish ‘n chips. A simple tuna sandwich I shared with Mother was also good. Patio seating, picnic tables, and playground facilities are all available.

During high season, a second restaurant (the Low Tide Café--in truth, little more than a nice snack bar) is open at a second visitor facility located just a few meters from the observation platform for the Flowerpot Rocks, the park’s principal attraction. Washroom facilities at this facility remain open throughout the shoulder seasons.

Hopewell Rocks is a newly designated park attraction owned by the New Brunswick provincial government, but operated by a private firm. This partnership ensures that the site is protected from too much crass commercialism, while still allowing the site to be managed and exploited as a tourist attraction. From our experience, the partnership seems successful.

The Flowerpot Rocks are reached by a footpath down from the Interpretive Center. The path is easy but longish, taking walkers through a thick, pleasant woodland dominated by red cedar. The alternative to walking is a pay-to-ride shuttle that follows a second, wider path to the Flowerpots. Our party wasn’t daunted by the hike (allow 20 to 30 minutes), but rain on our first day prompted us to use the shuttle both ways--though with a bit of regret, given the beauty of the woods.

The Flowerpots themselves are the result of some of Mother Nature’s best artistic endeavors. This series of stone formations was sculpted from the cliff face by the forces of wind, tides, and rainwater--not to mention continental drift and glacial activity--over a period of millions of years. Despite the contribution of other natural forces, however, it is the tide cycle that takes top billing on a continuing basis. The ebb and flow of as much as 46 feet of water means that most of the so-called "pots" will be surrounded by water at high tide and turned into small islands, many of which are crowned in a green wreath accented by tall, slender ceders. At low tide, these formations dominate a narrow beach of rock and mud that can be accessed by a sturdy metal stairway attached to the observation platform.

Individual Flowerpots take many forms, and several have names suggestive of their shape. The Bear, for example, could indeed be an Impressionist’s vision of a bear--or it could be a giant squirrel feasting on a nut. Nearby Lover’s Arch is known to function as a creative site for weddings.

Wandering the beach at low tide can be an adventure, as the Flowerpot area extends along several hundred yards of beach. Each turn of the coastline provides a new and intriguing view of these fanciful formations--some still attached to the cliff face, some standing alone, and some toppled by time and tide. Numerous small sea caves also pock the cliff face.

Visitors to this particular stretch of beach should pay close heed to the tide tables and should avoid exploring the sea caves. Fortunately, park management has posted the more fragile areas to discourage the unwary. Strategically placed signs at the head of the stairs leading down from the observation platform also post warnings concerning each day’s tide cycle and noting those times when visitors can expect the highest level of danger. Taking a walk on the ocean floor, as one can easily do at low tide on Hopewell Cape, should be done only with the deepest respect for the forces of Nature.

Although the Flowerpot Rocks are the focal point of the park, they are by no means its only worthwhile attraction. The Diamond Rock observation platform is only a short walk down an easy path from the Interpretive Center. The view is less spectacular than some along the Fundy coast, but it’s definitely worth the relatively small effect required. Diamond Rock is yet another feature of the sandstone cliffs from which the Flowerpots were formed. In contrast to the sandstone, the Diamond Rock platform provides a view of The Ledges--an outcropping of sedimentary rock formed over eons by calcium (from long-deceased sea creatures) and mud.

The observatory platform for Daniels Flats is equally accessible, and presents a spectacular view of an extensive tidal mud flat, of salt marshes along the low-lying coastline west of the Flowerpots, and of Mount Shepody (an ancient landmark far older than the geologically youthful Rocky Mountains). If not for the Flowerpots, the mud flats at low tide would be the star of the show at Hopewell Cape. Vast expanses of chocolate-colored mud can be seen stretching out into the bay. The mud flats are crisscrossed by deep chasms formed by water escaping as the tide recedes. The mudscape is obviously treacherous, and public access is not permitted.

A side path from the main trail leading to the Flowerpots leads down to Big Cove, where the observation platform provides vistas across the bay and west toward Diamond Rock. Stopping here not only provides some great views, it offers a good halfway point--a rest stop before plunging onward down the path.

To the east of the Flowerpots, taking a path out from the Flowerpots platform and past the small cliffside visitor facility, is the Shorebirds observation platform and a stairway for beach access. Weather permitting, this platform provides outstanding views across to Nova Scotia, as well as a glimpse into the region’s Acadian past. During mid-summer, this is an ideal place for watching migratory seabirds, and even during early fall, we observed the comic antics of a few birds. Just a short way up the beach can also be seen remnants of what was once an extensive dike system along the lower Petitcodiac River, designed by the Acadians to drain the saltmarshes. The dikes were built in the late 17th and early 18th centuries to expand and protect croplands. At low tide, visitors can safely wander the beach--down toward the Flowerpots platform and beyond.

A final path (and one that we did not take), leads from the Interpretive Center to Demoiselles Beach. Time got the best of us, and I can only advise that this trail too claims marvelous views and intriguing geological formations.

Wherefores and By-the-Ways

Annual Schedule

Note that that Hopewell Rock is has a relatively short visitors’ season governed by a fairly complex schedule. Check the Web site for details.


Fees

Admission covers two days, which maximized the opportunity for visitors to explore the area at both high and low tide. All fees are in Canadian dollars and are posted on the Web site.


Getting There

The Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site is located just off Route 114 in southeastern New Brunswick. Though hardly on the beaten path, it is located less than an hour from Greater Moncton International Airport and less than 4 hours driving time from the Maine-Canadian border at Calais-St. Stephens. As part of a larger scenic area, guest accommodations for visiting the site are plentiful and cover a range of choices.

From journal Touring the Maritimes

Editor Pick

The Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site

  • August 25, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by J&J Reid from Whitby, Ontario
The Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site

It is possible to travel from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia to St. John, New Brunswick in six hours, but we were on vacation. We didn’t want to rush to our destination if it meant missing out on some of the sites we wanted to see.

One of those sites, and probably one of the neatest ones we stopped at, was the Hopewell Rocks Ocean Tidal Exploration Site. This site highlights the amazing power and variance of the Bay of Fundy tides.

In order to get here, you must exit the Trans Canada highway and take highway 114. This highway itself is a nice scenic route that follows the bay, bisects the Fundy National Park and returns to the Trans Canada highway about an hour outside of St. John.

We arrived at the Hopewell Rocks park in the morning which turned out to be lucky as this happened to be low tide. Admission to the park is about $5, and they do allow pets on a leash. Your admission gives you a 24-hour time limit to return to the park so that you are able to see both low and high tides.

At low tide, you are allowed to walk on the beach and observe the "flowerpot pillars." The pillars of stone were carved by the power of the daily tides. At high tide, these pillars look like little more than small islands. It’s about a kilometre's walk from the entrance to the flowerpots, but there is a shuttle service for $1 if you are so inclined.

From journal Two nights in St. John (with a dog)

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