Old town Salzburg is fantastic place to stroll in, which is just as well, as
most of the center is closed to motorized vehicles. The old town is in a long,
narrow piece of flat land boxed in between the Salzach River and the steep,
almost-vertical slopes of the Möchberg hill, which is crowned by the mighty
Hohensalzburg fortress. Streets are generally narrow and complemented by covered
arcades and even narrower alleys connecting the main roads that are generally
parallel to the Salzach River. Although the atmosphere here is often medieval,
the architecture is most often baroque, occasionally Renaissance. A happy mix of
shops, restaurants, churches, ornamental structures, museums, and galleries
makes Salzburg a fascinating city to stroll in.
The most important commercial street has traditionally been Getreidegasse;
Mozart was born at Number 9. Traditional shop signs are still used in an attempt
to preserve a medieval atmosphere. Note the low-key McDonald’s signs! The bright
red-and-blue signs of the Nordstrom seafood chain that opened adjacent to
the Mozarts Geburtshaus caused quite a scandal when unveiled in the 1990s.
It is possible to tour the streets of Salzburg by horse-drawn carriage. These
Fiakers line up at Residenzplatz to the south of the cathedral – the
tours are quite expensive. Until a century ago, horses were, of course, the norm,
and like modern-day car-washing establishments, horses were bathed regularly to
look their best. Two of these horse baths survived in Salzburg, the Roman-styled
Kapitalschwemme near the cathedral and the very elegant baroque
Hofmarstallschwemme. The latter, with huge theatrical paintings, were for the
exclusive use of the horses from the archbishop’s large stable.
Salzburg, on the right bank of the Salzach, is considered "new" despite the
number of buildings that survived from the 16th century. However, one
street in the new area is even more medieval in feel than the old town. The
Sandgasse runs parallel to the Salzach along the foot of the Kapuziner hill.
During the day, it is deserted, but at night, it is alive and the location of
many bars and cabaret shows. This has been the traditional red-light district of
Salzburg, but presently, the Maison de Plaisir is the only official whorehouse
here – operating hours are posted on the door. Despite the somewhat raunchy
nightlife here, the area is safe and clean, with several old buildings of
architectural note. In the mid-19th century, Austrain poet Ignaz Franz
Castelli described the Steingasse as the ugliest street in the world. However,
nowadays, it is considered the best-preserved example of civilian and secular
life in medieval and baroque Salzburg. It is in stark contrast to the opulent
splendor of the cathedral, archbishop’s residence, and other baroque palaces in
the old town.