Religiously, Easter in Rome is a powerful time. The week's ceremonies begin with Palm Sunday Mass in the Piazza in front of St. Peter's, where olive branches are waved instead of palms. Small, illustrated programs are distributed, and the various parts of the Mass are each conducted in a different language, so everyone can more or less follow what is being said.

Thursday, meanwhile, all of the churches in Rome are kept open late into the night and lit by candles. Even for non-religious individuals, the dark and quiet churches can provide a surprisingly peaceful and moving break from what is an otherwise very hectic and crowded week.

On Good Friday, Stations of the Cross are held at the Coliseum at night. The pope oversees them, and the street outside is packed full of people. Then, on Saturday night, an Easter vigil is held inside of St. Peter's. Unlike all of the other events, tickets ARE checked, so don't try to sneak in (I tried and guess what, it didn’t work). Sunday, of course, is the big day. Mass is again held in the piazza. If you're planning on getting a seat, you'll want to be there by 5:30 or 6 (at the latest).

For average Italians, however, Pasqua is more of a secular holiday. Some people will start the day with Mass, but not all of them will. Instead, a huge and lengthy dinner followed by a colomba (dove-shaped) cake is the day’s main festivity. Children, meanwhile, will receive a giant chocolate egg from their parents. Unlike American Easter eggs, however, these eggs have a present inside. While premade eggs exist (I saw a pink one with a Barbie and her accessories inside, for example), some people will buy a gift and then take it to a candy store that will make an egg with that specific gift inside. I once heard a story of parents who gave their child a bike that way (seriously).

While a Roman pilgrimage spent at St. Peter's is no doubt a beautiful way to celebrate Easter, I prefer the more authentic, quieter Pasqua. Hop into a candlelit church late Thursday night, go to Sunday Mass at one of the other amazing historic churches (they'll be crowded, but most of the tourists will be crammed outside of St. Peter's), and spend the afternoon cooking and consuming a massive Italian dinner. There's an Italian expression, "Natale con i tuoi, Pasqua con chi vuoi", roughly meaning that you should spend Christmas with your family, but Easter should be spent with whomever you choose. So while Easter in St. Peter's might be appealing, for a truly Italian celebration, enjoy the company of your family and friends and, of course, plenty of food.