While Banderas Bay offers some exceptional advanced diving opportunities with superb chances of pelagic interaction (mantas, turtles, dolphin, etc..), we didn't have a full day to dedicate to the trip to and from Las Marietas. Instead, we opted for the more convenient Los Arcos National Park.
We picked up our gear at Chico's at 7:30am and were shuttled by panga to the dive boat anchored off shore. The boat was full of snorklers and divers in training. Only six of us were already certified so we were looking forward to getting away from the crowds. The boat ride itself was worth the trip since we cruised just off shore from Puerto Vallarta and got some great shots of the city, the cathedral and the Sierra Madres rising in the distance.
Within twenty minutes we were at Los Arcos, which is a striking sight. Three huge rocks appear to be floating in the bay and hundreds of gulls, pelicans and other sea birds filled the air. Only one other boat was anchored nearby and we geared up for our dive.
Strong surge was the first thing I noticed as we entered the water and we had to descend by holding onto the anchor line. Visibility in the bay during the winter is typically 40-60 feet but the wind and surf were unusally strong during our visit. As a result the visibilty was lousy and our dive master kept us near the rocks instead of taking us to the nearby Canon del Diablo--a 1300 meter deep canyon with the reputation for exceptional wall diving. Due to the vis, most of the dive was spent focusing on staying together, though our dive master did locate a small snowflake moray. Otherwise, the murkiness prevented much fish viewing.
By the time we surfaced, a few dozen boats were anchored near by and the water was filled with tourists. Chico's has a 'first in first out' strategy, priding itself on being the first dive boat out each morning. For our second dive, they actually changed locations to the far side of the rock croppings and away from the crowds. Visibility was better on our second dive, and the fish more abundant.
While our experience was not great, Chico's lived up to their standard as a 5 star PADI dive shop. Their boat and equipment were in good shape and their staff was experienced and a lot of fun. The crowds were a bit overwhelming, but the strategy of first in first out limited our exposure to the masses and worked pretty well.
We were disappointed in the diving, but part of the enjoyment of the sport comes from the fact that each and every dive is unique. We would very much like to return and dive again with Chico's.