Description: In BriefOne of Paris’s richest areas, St Germain is home to many exquisite 18th century mansions now used as government buildings. There are no bargains here but the gourmet shops, boutiques, florists and galleries provide an interesting backdrop to some of the city’s best museums.
By The Numbers
Although the sun struggled against a veil of clouds on a cool morning, a walk through the Neo-Classical Jardin des Tuileries(1) soon brightened our day. Autumn displays of colour competed with eclectic and humorous sculptures while families indulged and locals of all ages congregated to banter, read and challenge each other with games of chess as the day unfolded.
The sun cooperated as if in response to the commotion, and our backs were warmed as we crossed pont de la Concorde to the Left Bank district of St Germain and the magnificent square of Place du Palais-Bourbon(2).
An amphitheatre of 18th century mansions surrounded a deserted square. A florist on one corner hosted a pair of young lovers and the animated conversation from a lone café echoed as a woman cycled past, warning us with an obligatory ring-ring on her bell. It was a scene straight from a period French flick and my camera worked overtime.
Although a commercial thoroughfare, narrow rue de Bourgogne was quiet today and at its southern end we detoured into Musee Rodin(3) in the manicured grounds of the Hotel Biron. The wonderful 18th century mansion was alive with light and conversation as a steady stream of visitors admired a comprehensive collection of works from France’s finest sculptor.
There were several other pieces scattered around the leafy garden, including The Thinker and The Gates of Hell. Wanting to savour the experience, we dined at the garden’s small café, sharing a picnic of baguettes and crisp salad.
Fuelled by café cremes, we explored the exquisite architecture and handsome shops of rue de Grenelle(4) before heading for an afternoon’s indulgence of impressionist magic in the Musee d’Orsay(5). The spacious converted turn-of-the-century railway station was opened as a museum in 1986 and now houses the world’s finest collection of impressionist art. This was a special time for Karen and she swooned, stared and gasped for the next four hours, awe-inspired by a relentless procession of her heroes.
I found her exhausted near closing time, sitting with an American woman outside a room of Degas sculptures. Both of them wore beaming smiles like badges of honour.
"My God, David, I think I’ve died and gone to heaven. You must bring me back here before we go."
She proclaimed Degas, Monet, Bonnard and Pisarro all to be utterly brilliant, in the end admitting that it was too much to take in for one afternoon. Karen had fulfilled a dream that day in the city of light and our walk past the 18th century mansions lining rue de Lille was a romantic one as the glow of dusk fuelled our passion.
Two days and Paris had already stolen our hearts.
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