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Panama City

Walking Along the Seawall

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  • Balboa Avenue
    Panama City, Panama
jemery
jemery
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Editor Pick

Walking Along the Seawall

  • May 14, 2007
  • Rated 3 of 5 by Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
Latin America's coastal cities always have a seawall malecón bordered by a popular promenade. Panamá City's is more of a necessity and reference point than an attraction, but there are numerous things worth mentioning; especially for travelers staying anywhere in La Exposición.

The Avenue is the surest stretch to keep bearings within the confounding maze of streets. Taxis and buses heavily ply the only midtown artery with traffic running in both directions, but walking is just as pleasant. Day or night, the malecón stays active with bikers and joggers. Despite precautionary warnings, safety shouldn't be a cause for concern though awareness should rise after dark.

Balboa Statue and Park commands center of attention with a circular drive that takes on a carnival atmosphere at night. Sidewalk vendors hawk treats and flowers for lovers congregating on scattered benches. Actually, there's something dreamy about the malecón after dark; especially with how mosaic blue tiles of the seawall enliven like tidal waves off headlight reflections.

Heading north from the statue, inland side of the Avenue is lined with numerous parks, which were quite active of an evening with families. The larger drive-in esplanade along the waterfront had a vagrant contingency by day, and suspicious feel by night. Walking anywhere towards Punta Paitilla's luxury towers, this is the only place to likely avoid.

The Panamá Yacht Club, just north of Balboa Park, may hold the all-time Best Hidden Opportunity of the country! Other travelers reported sailing the Canal for free. Yachts are required to take-on additional crew. Hang around, and wait to get signed for the following day. Apparently, there's more eating and drinking involved than actual work. Drop-off is in Colón, for returning by public transportation.

South from Balboa Park heads towards downtown, with impressive views of distant Casco Viejo hooking-out into the bay. Across the street, Restaurante Boulevard Balboa (off Calle 31), and El Rincón Tableño (off Calle 27), were highly recommended for their inexpensive local specialties. Unfortunately they were closed during the holidays. These offer full-service, rather than a cafeteria, and are places easy to pin-point.

The Avenue forks at Calle 24, and you'll readily smell the Japanese Fish Markets along the waterfront. Numerous seafood restaurants are scattered around the complex. Unless planning to dine, there's little to see worth coming here for, including a newer version of The Local Market.

These cinder-block halls had a sterile feel with individual boothes lined side-by-side. The place is clean, well-lit, and sectioned-out with goods like aisles of a supermarket. With abundance of munchables found everywhere else, only the curiously bored would actually plan to come here, as nothing souvenir-related was available.

-- These markets have replaced the older wooden structures surrounding Muelle 10, included on Lonely Planet's Casco Viejo Walking Tour. The piers are decayed, and area fairly seedy but there's no denying the old place still harbors the ambience.

From journal Blue Bayou; the Visionary's Wager

Walking

  • February 6, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by chiefdonald48 from Ostrander, Ohio
Peaceful rain and a 'few' bugs. Spent most of the day just drinking in the sights and sounds. Even by myself, I have a great time.

From journal Gamboa—'Rain' Forest

Editor Pick

A Walk Along the Seawall

  • February 24, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by jemery from Chicago, Illinois

In hour and a half long stroll along Panama City’s waterfront, I walked from the 21st Century to the 17th. Avenida Balboa, which follows the seawall in a sweeping arc around Panama Bay, gives one a marvelous overview of both the old and new cities.

I started in the Marbella District, a residential neighborhood of sleek high-rises mingling with the pastel-painted, tile-roofed villas typical of the Spanish Caribbean. When you reach the waterfront, the entire downtown skyline will spread out before you. At the far end of the bay, you’ll see a peninsula with low, red-roofed buildings punctuated by church steeples. This is Casco Viejo, the Old City (or ‘Old Colony’); your ultimate destination. It’s about a three-mile walk.

The futuristic, blue-white tower with vast expanses of glass is the Miramar Hotel Intercontinental; worthy of visiting. Its pool deck is big enough to be a city park and its oceanfront restaurant served me the best dinner of my trip. Directly offshore is the Miramar Marina, where the really wealthy park their yachts.

Further along, there’s a pleasant little Spanish-style park, Parque Anayanis, with plenty of benches, shade trees and people to watch and photograph. Linger here awhile; it will be your last patch of shade until you reach the Seafood Market.

This market, el Mercado de Mariscos, marks the end of your oceanfront excursion. It scarcely resembled a ‘market’ the mid-day I was there ... more of a place for fishermen to store their equipment and work on their boats. You could always find a sea bird or two to serve as props in your photos.

Beyond the seafood market and before the Old City is Santa Ana. A chaotic place of narrow streets and the corrugated-tin structures so common to poor Latin American barrios. It also contains what passes for Panama City’s Chinatown and many multi-balconied row apartments, some quaint and attractive, some not.

This is an easy place to get lost in. If you do, walk toward the first open water you see. This will put you on the seawall, where you can get your bearings. (My wanderings took me directly to the Presidential Palace, easy to find on any map.) If you happen on an old streetcar track, follow it. Going north with take you back downtown. Going south will take you into the heart of the old city and eventually to the museums and municipal theater on the waterfront.

This is a long, hot walk but otherwise easy; a few moderately challenging hills and paved sidewalks all the way. It’s by far the best way to acquaint yourself with the multiple personalities of Panama City.

From journal Panama: Much More than a Canal

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