Palermo Sights

davidx
davidx
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Introduction to Palermo

  • November 21, 2005
  • Rated 3 of 5 by Drever from Ayr
Introduction to Palermo

Palermo, the capital city of Sicily, is a mixture of ostentation and poverty, a place of beauty that is ugly in places, and a city in which to wear a money belt and keep an eye on your camera. My wife hated it on sight, not feeling safe in its narrow, dirty streets. I took a little longer--until my wallet vanished.

Palermo is old and looks it. Streets and pavements are narrow and grime hangs over everything. No space that wheels can roll along is sacrosanct to the scooters, which make their jarring racket everywhere. Noise and pollution hang over the city as you find your way among old monuments: Arab cupolas, Byzantine street markets, and Norman and baroque architectural gems dating back centuries. The city is a treasure trove of dusty museums and baroque oratories. Palermo's Arab-Norman buildings have no equivalent.

The city’s history stretches back to the 8th century B.C., when the Phoenicians set up a trading post here. Eventually Palermo became the Carthaginian capital of Sicily, but following the Roman conquest in 254 B.C., power and trading shifted to Syracuse on the east coast and Palermo went into decline.

In turn, Palermo played host to never-ending armies of invaders. The Vandals came, then the Ostrogoths, and by 831 the city had fallen to the Arabs. During this time, power returned to Palermo as it became one of the great markets of the Mediterranean, with magnificent mosques and luxurious palaces. It was the equal of Cairo in Egypt.

In 1072, when Palermo fell to Roger de Hauteville, it marked the beginning of the Norman period. Under his son, King Roger, who ruled from 1130 to 1154, Palermo entered its best period, with Muslims, Christians, and Jews living in harmony and prosperity.

Under King Frederick, who gained the throne of Sicily in 1208, Palermo became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. In 1268, Charles of Anjou, brother of the French King, came to the throne and launched a despotic rule that ended in the Rebellion in 1282 of the citizens known as the Sicilian Vespers. In the aftermath, King Peter III of Spanish Aragon came into power and influence in Palermo. The Aragonese preferred Naples to Palermo as a capital, and power once again waned in Palermo as it passed to feudal families and religious orders.

Palermo never regained its power and prestige. The city's decay and decline stretched on for centuries. Then an even worse disaster descended on it in 1943, when the city received massive bombardments by Allied air forces stationed in North Africa.

In the aftermath of the war, Palermo eventually came to recognise the greatness of its architectural heritage, and proper restoration began, although sites cratered by bombs still exist. The restored Teatro Massimo reopened in 1997. Restoration of historic quarters such as Kalsa is underway with restaurants, galleries, and cafes opening. Cracking down on crime would offer even greater hope for the future.

From journal Palermo and Agrigento – where civilisations meet

Palermo, not just mosaics and skeletons!

  • October 25, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by davidx from Todmorden, United Kingdom
Since the mosaics and the skeletons of Palermo have their own pages, the only things the places on this page have in common is that they are in Palermo but come in neither category.

The church of San Catoldo is right next to the Martorana [see mosaics page] and contrasts with the sumptuous splendour of that church by its own complete internal simplicity. Actually this somehow manages to be immensely striking! The exterior is noticeable by its bright red domes.

Another church - or rather ex-church - worth visiting is San Giovanni degli Eremeti, near to the Norman Palace. This is obviously of Arab origin and contains a number of domes. Oddly it is possibly the garden which has run wild, among the graceful cloisters, which gives this its particular appeal.

The Museo Archeologico Regionale contains the sorts of collections of Greek and Roman work that you would expect in Palermo and the Selinunte room is a knockout. This is not purpose built, having been a convent originally and suffered mightily from bomb damage - but the illustrations of its history certainly add to its appeal.

La Zisa, reached by the 124 bus, seemed to me grotesquely overated; it is OK as an old Arabic remain but to compare it with the Alhambra is farcical - it is just not in that league and the claim that it is detracts from its appeal which is a pity as it does have some.

Monte Pellegrino is reached by bus 812 from fairly near the tourist information centre. It has a rather odd timetable and you are best finding out in advance if possible. The virtue of the fairly short ridee would be hard to overstate, twisting through fine woodland with glorious views of the coast. I am sure the walk up to the top and the view would be quite magnificent but sadly my health was not up to that. To my mind the Sanctuario de Santa Rosalia, at the bus terminal, is absolutely dreadful and the gorup of tat- selling stalls which it has attracted does nothing for the place either. However , even if you cannot get to the top of the mountain the virtue of the ride easily compensates for the dreadfulness of the sanctuary. I did not go in!

Perhaps I was lucky to have excellent views into the port area from the bus on my way in as parts of it are said to be a bit on the undesirable side.

From journal Sicily in February

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