From the northern tip of Oahu, the coastline swells eastward as it curves downward, running first in a smooth line, then breaking up into coves, harbors, and peninsulas. Perhaps the most beautiful of these is Laie Point. Laie is often associated with the Mormon-run Polynesian Cultural Center, which makes its home there, but it was once a puuhonua, a place of refuge where criminals could go to be forgiven. Surely a stop there would convince any visitor to forgive Laie for its enormous tourist attraction and remember it for its natural beauty.
The Point is little known and rarely included in Oahu itineraries. No signs exist to lure travelers from the highway to see the claw of stone and rock which curves out into the Pacific Ocean. Fishermen are likely to be your only companions, if indeed anyone is there when you visit. A plaque recounts the tale of Mo'o, a hero of ancient times who fought and defeated the local giant lizard monster. He broke its body into five pieces and cast them into the water, where they became the five islands you can see from your perch at the end of the natural jetty. (Of course, Mo'o might have been the name of the lizard; I can't find the story in any of my guidebooks.) One of the five islands may not, in fact, be an island, but a lava sea arch. I also read that it was an island with a puka, or hole, carved into it by the waves. In any case, it is stunning to watch the waves breaking through the puka/arch/whatever it is, and would be a challenge for a serious photographer to capture the moment (our attempts can be found below.) Also photo-ready are the jagged ridges of the Ko'olau Mountains.
Coming from the East on Kamehameha Highway, look for the Laie Shopping Center. After you pass it, turn right on Anemoku Street then right on Naupaka street to reach the Point.
North of Laie is Kahuku, once a plantation town settled primarily by Samoans. You'll know you're in the center of town when you see the painted remains of the machinery of a sugar mill that once stood in Kahuku. Next door to the brightly decorated flywheels and other giant pieces of metal is the Sugar Mill Restaurant, an utterly uninteresting-looking little takeout place that serves absolutely acceptable coconut shrimp and tempura vegetables for a pittance. It's a good place to stop if you're hungry, but I wouldn't go out of my way for it.
A worthwhile stop on your way home from Laie or Kahuku is Kualoa, home of another god-defeats-lizard-and-throws-it-in-the-ocean legend. The resulting island is Mokolii, but it is more often called the Chinaman's Hat because of its distinctive shape, which would be right at home in a rice paddy. The view of Mokolii from Kualoa beach is lovely and takes a great photograph.