We each rode along on our own horse for over 2 days. Along the way we stopped off at the gers of local herdsmen and camped slap right next to the banks of the lake--it was truly wonderful. Ochi brought along a traditional Mongolian tent, complete with a large stove to keep us warm and to cook our food.

The tent was an awesome place. Even though it was May, temperatures outside were still below freezing, and the the main body of the lake was frozen solid, we were toasty thanks to the stove.

The only drawback to the trip was the state the horses left my legs in. Mongolian horses, or takhi, are only about the size of a pony, and Mongolians ride them using a strong, uncomfortable wooden saddle that just destroyed my calves and inner thighs.

The whole area of the national park is incredibly remote, and consequently perfect for exploring untrodden paths and breathtaking views. The more intrepid traveller can get to see more of the lake by employing a local herdsman as a guide and setting out on horseback. In winter it is even possible to take jeeps out onto the frozen surface--it is worth noting, though, that very little accommodation or facilities are on offer in the winter, and the lake can remain at least partially frozen until well into July.

As stunning as Khovsgol is, it is no ordinary trip out into the country. Getting there from Ulaan Baatar has been known to take upwards of a week and is a 3-day journey at best. The first leg is 14 hours through the night train ride to the mining town of Erdenet. From there public transport gets a bit thin on the ground and the next leg involves finding a jeep or van that will make the 24-hour trip to the Moron. After food and rest in Moron, it is back to the jeep for a 5-hour run to Khatgal, a small town at the base of Khovsgol, which is home to most of the area's accommodation.

Finding somewhere to stay is relatively easy in summer. There are no luxury hotels and, truth be told, no real hotels of any kind. There are, however, a multitude of gers (see picture), felt tents built around a central stove. These are available for around $5 a night, although running water and electricity are modern luxuries they do not yet come provided.