Three times I've been in Damascus and never once have I seen it in daylight. But that magical quality you hear about is even more pronounced when trying to navigate or explore the city in the dark.
Scrubbing and washing the dirt and miles off you is best done in the hammamm next to the city's main mosque. It's a bit confusing to find at first, but when you realise it's right opposite the main door of the place of worship, you feel rather silly. For less than €10 you can have a steam, massage, and shower, which is the best way to start your next leg. There is a ladies area/time, which I heard is just as good.
Damascus itself is a strange city, a real mix of east and west, with all the hectic qualities of London but the laidback nature of Jeddah. It's not a city I would readily refer to as friendly, but it is cheap, gritty, and also more than a little exciting, especially as I got lost driving through it each time!