Highway 191 terminates at 13km, where a small access road veers to the right, and a trail head for Mt. Britton is just beyond. Parking is along the narrow passageway, and an elderly park employee was always standing guard, whether to provide security within the remoteness or encouragement to the weary. He assured that the mile hike to the tower could be done within 45 minutes, though information estimates a 90-minute trek. Physical stamina and endurance dictate the real time factor.

At 941 feet, Mt. Britton is one of the lesser peaks within the Luquillo mountain chain. Path brevity is less than half the distance for reaching El Yunque, only because it doesn't take extended scenic routes terracing up the mountain.

This trail begins an immediate steep climb using a series of short step stairs dispersed amid narrow paved sections with barely room to pass around others. The forest, clinging to the side of the mountain, was some of the most dense and darkened ground cover around, the shade factor more a highlight than actual scenery.

Trail through the forest ends at a small service road that continues the vigorous climb before a brief jaunt resumes up a steep embankment. The Mount Britton Lookout Tower is swallowed by its lofty surroundings. Not until entering the stone structure, and trudging the final steps up an interior staircase, does such physical chastisement make any sense.

Arriving out of breath is further exacerbated by the breathtaking scope that encompasses the tower, including glimpses of Caribbean along the island's southern coast. Outward vistas were rather hazy, even on a clear day, but the most intriguing views lie below, overlooking the forest canopy. Binoculars would've been nice, but a telephoto lense was great for turning the above picture into a close-up work of art like pictured at bottom of the Gardener Free Form.

Information placards are scattered along the trail's first half, detailing significance of various tree species thriving in the Tabonuco Forest below 2,000 feet. Farther off-trail, some of these protected, towering hardwoods date a 1,000 years old, outliving relatives that used to luxuriate the island before Spaniards arrived and began culling lowlands. Many of Old San Juan's original structures still stand strong 500 years later thanks to durable beams and planks, but it was construction of Spanish warships that prompted an export ban, perhaps sparing further deforestation.

For peace of mind, identify the Yagrumo Tree, which is found all over the forest and dominates this area. Excelling with dual-purpose thanks to rapid growth over a short-lived lifespan of 40 years, Yagrumos provide critical canopy cover, and their odd-shaped leaves carpet the forest floor trapping seeds and pods for germination. However, it's a long fall from top to bottom, and leaves come crashing through the dense vegetation with a startling Jurrasic Park-type rumble!

Lower elevations receive less than 100 inches of annual rainfall but can be inundated with ground runoff from higher levels. Sunken trails weave along hair-pin curves descending the mountain where looking down can be as fascinating as trapsing with head tilted upward and mouth agape. Exposed from top soil continually washing away, intricate root systems have entangled with vines forming artistic natural sculptures clandestine in the sea of green.

Nearing the halfway point, stillness is enlivened with sounds of water cascading down the mountain, signaling anticipation for seeing the grand finale. Thundering turned out to be only a small stream meandering down a rock course, I turned back feeling extremely cheated. Thankfully, the final, earlier missed trail marker pinpointed that this wasn't the marvel and intended course was resumed.

La Mina Falls is the ultimate destination for using this trail, and the roar is audible long before sight. The falls is the park's most substantial, regardless of rainfall, and small pool at the base is the only spot for dipping. Cool waters were nice for soaking feet, and a person could totally submerge himself in the shallowness with a little effort, but large underwater rocks make for tipsy wading. What the area excels in for beauty, it lacks in size and quickly fills up on weekends.

My first El Yunque experience came through one of these excursions back in '94. From current observations, scheduled events don't appear to have changed except that now Portal Visitor Center has been added as the first stop. Excursionists are hauled in 25-passenger vans. Tinted windows severely limit incredible views when making the scenic drive up Highway 191.

The second stop comes at La Coca Falls, an 85-foot cascade that's usually a trickle down the sheer ridge unless heavy rains have fallen. There's a small pool at the bottom; rocks are extremely slippery for getting to the base. The falls is also a hot spot, with locals posing for snapshots; natural beauties are often lost in the crowds. Beyond here, Yokahu Tower is another stop with surrounding gardens the better highlight. A winding central staircase ascends the 69-foot look-tower built in the '60s; vistas are only as good as skies permit, though it's said that St. Thomas can be seen on clear, sunny days.

The extent of hiking, and time within the forest, is spent along the Caimitillo Trail, a level, well-maintained path that barely slices the vegetation, and takes about 30 minutes, even when rushed through en masse. Guides frequently stop to point out significant details, but trails are narrow, making clustering around within hearing range difficult. Incessant chatter from the group spoils natural tranquilities, but jungle-like qualities still make quite an impression.

Honestly speaking, coming here to be herded around like cattle is better than nothing, but don't be surprised to end up feeling extremely cheated. Similar memories overshadowed initial experiences until recently returning, and taking proper means for doing things at my own leisure. Even if it's only for a day, check into car rental options, since no public transportation services the forest.

IGOUGO's comparative pricing car rental link turned up the best deal through Thrifty at a daily base rate of $20.19 on economy models. Actual cost was $29.11 per day with taxes, license-plate fee, and mandatory $5.95 liability insurance not covered by credit card policies. Better than the savings, compared to organized excursion rates, was the chance to freely explore this National Park as intended over 3 consecutive days, physically pooping out long before opportunities did.