Typical of all the Dominican Republic's major towns which evolved within early Spanish traditions, Higuey has the distinctive town square/plaza in the middle of the city that life once centered around. But unlike in nearby La Romana where the hub of activities are still clustered around this area, Higuey's reminds me too much of small-town America where downtowns have became forsaken and obsolete based on continued growth and businesses fleeing to outer-skirts and suburbs. The small park in the central plaza was nothing overly impressive, or at least with evidence of flowers and well-tended gardens like you find in most others. The overgrown shade trees all but negated the blue skies and intense summer sun - great for sitting on one of the many shaded benches and surveying the environment while watching locals go about their daily business. Don't expect to do this uninterrupted - characteristics of any Dominican town square are the little shoeshine boys out in full force so expect to be repeatedly approached regardless of what type of footwear you have on.
In looking around the perimeters of the square, the outer stores are wall-to-wall currency exchange houses, trinket shops, and any other number of businesses which once prospered from the nearby tourist trade coming from along the Coconut Coast. With the ongoing, overdevelopment I would later find in the Bavaro/Punta Cana resort areas, the once necessary trip for travelers coming to Higuey for conducting official business has since vanished. Proprietors hadn't seemed to figure this out yet...standing on the sidewalks encouraging me to enter as I passed by. At no point did I ever encounter another "foreigner" venturing about in Higuey except for my times spent in/around the large Basilica.
If you actually make the effort to explore the central area, you shouldn't miss the hidden gem that time has also passed over and all but forgotten. The Iglesia San Dionisio is the original cathedral built in the 1500's sitting on the southeast corner of the square. It has the old Spanish Mission appearance from the outside housing a rather plain but interesting interior with the vaulted ceilings and frescoed dome rising above the altar. And to think before the new Basilica opened in the mid 50's this was where thousands of Dominicans made their annual pilgrimage for paying tribute to the Virgin of Altagracia?
The old caretaker put down his broom to come and personally welcome me in despite my irreverent appearance wearing a cut-up t-shirt, shorts and a do-rag. Beyond the initial greeting, there was no exchange of conversation; only contemplative silence. Stay for as long as you wish, and like everything else in the city center geared towards visitors, plan to have it all to yourself.