The ferry provides a free tour as we pass waterfalls and glaciers and the onboard amateur and enthusiastic guide tells us about life in the tiny town of Haines where she'd grown up.
Sleepy against the Chilkat Mountains, between late October and December Haines becomes home to over 3000 bald eagles- one of the top gatherings in the world. She, child of two native tribes, has spent her life in various Alaskan communities and describes meeting her father and his community for the first time. She is open to questions. "What do you do in the winter?" "Rent videos- relax." Away briefly from a hamster on a treadmill world it's hard to imagine months of videos and relaxation as an expected and planned part of my year- A two day ferry ride to buy groceries. But can you imagine the sight of 3000 eagles?
We meet a commuter and his "pet" wolf on their way to the top (dog) deck. He works in Skagway and invites us to stop by his shop. Because of the currents here the ferry is open year round.
Our detour has provided unplanned opportunities.
Arriving from the uncommercialized Haines, Skagway seemed a bustling town.