Grand Canyon National Park Reviews (Grand Canyon, Arizona)

Amazing Grand Canyon

by dkm1981

Blackburn, England, United Kingdom

May 31, 2012

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Best of IgoUgo When my husband and I did a road trip around the US, the Grand Canyon was our first stop. I have actually been before, but even previous visits can’t prepare you for the breath taking beauty of the place. You’ll need a set of batteries and a memory ...Read more When my husband and I did a road trip around the US, the Grand Canyon was our first stop. I have actually been before, but even previous visits can’t prepare you for the breath taking beauty of the place. You’ll need a set of batteries and a memory card for your visit here alone because every step you take brings another wonderful sight and photo opportunity – it simply is that good! We went to the South Rim area known as Grand Canyon Village, which is almost 300km away from Las Vegas, driving along highways and interstates. The drive is very easy (we have never driven abroad before and found it to be a doddle) and the views on the way are great.

Entrance to the park is $25 per car, regardless of how many passengers are in it and that fee allows you unlimited access for seven days from issue. This is fantastic if you are there for a couple of days and still worth it even if you are only there overnight like we were. It also has the added bonus of meaning that you can choose to stay in a cheaper hotel outside of the park gates and drive in each day without incurring extra charges.

We stayed inside the park at one of the park’s five accommodations. We chose the cheapest of the bunch – Maswik Lodge – which was fantastic. It had a feel of a hostel to it, but the rooms are private and have plenty of facilities including a fridge and a huge 42" television, which has to be the most redundant thing on the planet when you consider the view outside of the window. All of the accommodations are understated and blend in with the surrounding nature and at around $70 per night, we thought this one was great value and perfectly suitable. The other places offer the full range of standards right up to the luxurious El Tovar, so you can find whatever you want.

Grand Canyon Village is aptly named because it is very much like a little village in that it has restaurants, café, bars and shops. Pleasingly though, it isn’t in any way tacky. The shops are all part of the various hotels and so blend in nicely. They tend to sell basic things including snacks and a range of essential items, but at slightly inflated prices, given the location. If you are staying over and want a drink, I’d totally recommend the bar at the Angel Lodge hotel which is a wonderful little place offering, amongst other things, a wide selection of cocktails. The bar is a cosy place that is gently lit and often has live music on.

You can drive around parts of the park, although I’d highly recommend parking up in one of the many (free) car parks and using the (free) shuttle buses to explore. There are three routes called Red, Blue and Yellow (original hey?) and they pretty much cover all of the accessible areas of the park. They run completely regularly and are very reliable and convenient. Each of the bus stops details the route and the other stops available, as well as the bus timetables so they are very easy to use. We took full advantage of the bus and found it a very handy way of exploring. There are lots of different viewpoints that you can visit and the buses cover all of them. They also give you an exact distance between the stop that you are at and the next one each way. We really enjoyed walking between bus stops too – you can ride the bus out to the end and then alternate between walking and getting the bus to ensure that you aren’t wasting time waiting for buses.

The park itself is absolutely stunning, as you would imagine, from whichever way you look at it. No amount of photographs can really do justice to the beauty that is literally all around you. I am really struggling to describe it without sounding all cheesy, but it really is like nothing else. The colours are fabulous and the shapes that the Colorado River has carved into the canyon are incredible – I could have spent hours just standing and staring and it is easy to do as there are so many things to look at. Squinting at the river at the bottom gives you some idea of the scale of the canyon, but there are placards around the edges that indicate spots in the distance are around 14 miles away. The placards also label some of the more interesting rock shapes and points in the canyon, as well as giving interesting facts about it. The signage is all done in a way that will engage everyone from children to adults and from casual tourists to keen climbers.

You can take walks down into the canyon, although it isn’t as simple as just strolling down there. Thanks to the heat and the sheer distance down to the bottom, you really have to come prepared if you want to explore downwards. There are lots of information signs that warn of the dangers of going unprepared and alone. You can walk a little way down without too much strain, but to be honest we preferred walking around the edge and looking down at the view.

One of the most amazing things about Grand Canyon Village is how much thought and care they have given to maintaining the natural feel of the place, whilst opening it up to visitors. The buildings are all low and surrounding by trees to minimalize their impact. There are a couple of rules that are strictly enforced, such as no littering and making sure that pets are kept on a leash at all times. The best thing though in my opinion, was the complete lack of light pollution. There are very few lights in the village – just enough that you can see where you are going but not enough to ruin the fabulous view into the sky at night. It is worth staying over for this alone. I don’t think I have ever been able to see as many stars in the sky as you can here, it really is quite spectacular. Remember that it is the desert though and so it does get cold at night, so bring warm clothes for that.

Needless to say, I absolutely loved the Grand Canyon and I firmly believe that it is one of those places that you should visit in your lifetime if you can. It doesn’t have to be expensive because there are places to stay and eat that suit every budget and it isn’t just about the walking – there is a great atmosphere around the social part of the village too.
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From journal American Road Trip Part One

The Grand Canyon - A sight to behold

by RoBoNC

Indianapolis, Indiana

October 25, 2011

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Best of IgoUgo A visit to Arizona would not be complete without a visit to the Grand Canyon. Once your eyes look upon this natural wonder with its different colors layered on top of each other, you can’t help but be inspired. The Canyon stretches for 277 miles ...Read more A visit to Arizona would not be complete without a visit to the Grand Canyon. Once your eyes look upon this natural wonder with its different colors layered on top of each other, you can’t help but be inspired. The Canyon stretches for 277 miles and reaches a mile deep down to where the Colorado River snakes its way through.

We started off heading to the Grand Canyon from our hotel in Flagstaff. It is the closest major city to the Grand Canyon and only an hour and half drive from the park. We hopped on Interstate 40 and as we reached Williams, AZ, we headed north on US Route 64. It is a little over an hour drive to the park entrance. This road is heavily patrolled by state police so drive the speed limit.

There are two visitor centers, one on the North Rim and the South Rim. It doesn’t seem that the two are that far apart considering that the width of the Grand Canyon is eighteen miles at its widest point. However, it takes about four hours to get to the other side. Because of the remoteness of the North Rim and the fact that it is only open mid-May through mid-October, makes the South Rim the destination of choice for most visitors. The South Rim has more lodging, restaurants, and a lot more people. The North Rim, on the other hand, offers an escape from the crowds while admiring the beauty of the Grand Canyon is the same on either side.
We entered through the front entrance and paid our $25 park fee. The fee is per vehicle and it lasts seven days. We made our way to the visitor’s center and spoke with park rangers who are there to assist in helping you navigate the park. We decided to grab a bite to eat first before heading out to the Canyon. We boarded the Blue Shuttle, one of three different shuttle lines that take you through the park. The Blue shuttle took us to Grand Canyon Village. This is the transportation hub of the park. There is a post office, bank, gift shop, and restaurant. After getting some food, we boarded the Blue Shuttle again and took it to our first stop, the Train Depot. The building was built in 1909 and the tracks are still in operation as it is the northern terminus of the Grand Canyon Railway. A passenger service that started in 1989 carries patrons from Williams, Arizona to the Canyon.

We climbed a set of stairs directly across from the train station that takes you to the Canyon Overlook. The Hopi House, on the right, is another historic building built in 1905. To our left, stood the impressive El Tovar Hotel, which was also built in 1905. Dinner in the restaurant was fabulous, as we ate duck while admiring the view of the Grand Canyon through their large windows. We proceeded down the path that took us right up the ledge overlooking the Canyon. You really get a feel for how massive the Grand Canyon is and what it took to carve this out of the ground.

Our walk took us by three other lodges enroute to the Lookout Studio. It is a stone structure built in 1914 and now operates as a gift shop. The highlight of this site is that it offers excellent views of the Canyon and there is stone walkway that takes you a couple of stories down into the Canyon.

The trail ends where the Blue and Red Line transfer station is located. The Blue Line will take you back to Grand Canyon Village and then on the to the Visitor’s Center. The Red Line takes visitors on the Hermit Trail. It is a seven mile trail with nine overlooks. It is only accessible by shuttle. We decided to head back to the Visitor’s Center. The Yellow Line services the Desert View Trail. The trail starts right behind the visitor’s center. There are two overlooks, the South Kaibab Trailhead and Yaki Point, which is only accessible by the shuttle. Most of the Desert View Trail is accessed by vehicle with many different overlooks. Also known as the East Rim drive, it follows the Canyon 25 miles to the east entrance. As the road exits the park, it becomes US Route 64. Flagstaff is about an hour and half away. Most of the route goes through the Navajo Reservation. There are plenty of roadside stands selling everything from Indian jewelry to food. Perhaps the best of this route is that you see where the Grand Canyon begins. The ground is totally flat and then it slowly gives way to the Canyon.

Theodore Roosevelt said it best about the Grand Canyon when he visited it in 1903, "The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond comparison—beyond description; absolutely unparalleled throughout the wide world. ... Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is. Do nothing to mar its grandeur, sublimity and loveliness. You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is to keep it for your children, your children's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see."

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From journal Discovering Central and Northern Arizona

Spring Break at the Canyon: An overview

by callen60

Ozarks, Missouri

December 9, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo It’s hard for me to imagine now, but I used to think that the Grand Canyon was overrated. It didn’t trouble me that I hadn’t actually visited the Canyon; it seemed enough to know that it was an over-visited, over-hyped piece of Americana. I remember ...Read more It’s hard for me to imagine now, but I used to think that the Grand Canyon was overrated. It didn’t trouble me that I hadn’t actually visited the Canyon; it seemed enough to know that it was an over-visited, over-hyped piece of Americana. I remember listening quietly to an Eastern European friend in 1982, nodding and smilingly condescendingly while he waxed on about the greatest highlight of his eight months in the US, fondly recalling his time in Arizona as he prepared to head back home to his family in Poland. I recall just a touch of internal defensiveness as I tried to sort out whether it was odd that he appreciated one of my country’s landmarks more than I did.

I’m not sure what changed my mind. A few things certainly contributed: my brother hiked the Canyon rim-to-river and rim to-rim with glowing reports about both experiences; I became reacquainted with Yellowstone and Glacier and obsessed with visiting the National Parks. Some time later, the Canyon looked like the largest, glaring omission on my must-see list and not at all like a place I should be proud to have avoided.

I made it to the North Rim first, as part of a swing through northern Arizona and southern Utah. My kids were too intimidated to venture below the rim, fearing that every step might lead to disaster (although they left with a different attitude, ready for mule rides or hiking or anything else that would take them into the Canyon). When a colleague offered me the chance to help coordinate a spring break trip to the South Rim, I jumped at the chance. Having done it once, the 1200-mile drive seems more than doable, even when it results in equal parts time at the Canyon and time on the road.

This journal describes that six-day adventure, which began in southwest Missouri as an ice storm rolled in, resulting in a nerve-wracking ride from Tulsa to Oklahoma’s western border. I-44 follows the same general route as the now decommissioned Route 66, but the weather left us no chance to explore any of the towns and landmarks along the way. After an 8 am start, we arrived in Albuquerque at midnight local time, having taken a tip for a good Mexican restaurant in Amarillo, and enjoying the sunset as we covered the west Texas plains.

On our second day of travel, we briefly explored the northern reaches of Petrified Forest National Park, saving the region south of I-44 for the return trip, and hiked around the lower reaches of Sunset Crater Volcano. The remaining drive brought us in to Grand Canyon NP from the east, reaching Desert View just in time for sunset. Our three days at the rim gave us time for a three-mile warm-up hike along the South Kaibab Trail, and the following day’s journey along the Bright Angel Trail to Plateau Point.

In between, I enjoyed two sunrises at Mather Point, breakfasted twice at El Tovar (highly recommended), and enjoyed a hard-earned pie and beer at We Cook Pizza and Pasta after our ascent from Plateau Point. As we headed home on Thursday morning, my principal thought was that this would be a great way to spend spring bring every year. (Of course, that was before we hit white-out conditions somewhere west of Amarillo.)
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From journal Spring Break at the Canyon

Canyon Readings: More Favorites

by callen60

Ozarks, Missouri

November 4, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo There's a lot of great reading about the Canyon, and as my obsession with it continues, I'm making my way through more and more of it. Here are a few more of my favorites:The Man Who Walked Through Time. I’d never heard of this book, or the author, ...Read more There's a lot of great reading about the Canyon, and as my obsession with it continues, I'm making my way through more and more of it. Here are a few more of my favorites:

The Man Who Walked Through Time. I’d never heard of this book, or the author, Colin Fletcher, until I saw his obituary in the New York Times. He’s given much of the credit for starting the ‘backpacking craze’ in the late 1960’s and 1970’s, although there was so little lingo developed back then that he was often described as an 'inveterate' or ‘compulsive walker’. This 1968 book tells the story of his now 50-year-old hike along the Colorado and through the Grand Canyon. On a 1963 visit to the South Rim, he was struck by the idea of ‘walking’ end to end, a powerful enough vision that he planned comprehensively for this journey. His book chronicles all aspects of the trip, including his discovery of fellow walker Harvey Butchart, whose grand obsession with the canyon would make him a legend in years to come. Just months before, Butchart had completed such an end-to-end journey, and his help was invaluable to Fletcher (who, as a former British paratrooper, was no slouch in the self-reliance department).

Fletcher chronicles his preparations, his equipment, his habits, and his fears during the trip. He and Butchart correctly perceive that the largest challenge in completing the trip will be finding paths through the canyon’s tortuous granite chasms, where shelves that allow foot travel may be hard to come by. This brings Fletcher face to face with his largest fear: swimming (which comes as a surprise). On several occasions, he’s forced to blow up an air mattress and dogpaddle for quarter-mile stretches upstream when no footpath can be found. The care and practice he takes before launching on these parts of the journey sum up his meticulous planning: this is no wild, unprepared, adrenaline junkie, or a naïve back-to-nature type who is over his head in this dangerous, austere, and beautiful environment.

But all this work is to enjoy the journey. It’s the experience in the canyon that he’s after, and not a notch on his hiking stick. He spends over two months alone on this trip, narrowly making one of his three supply drops, and reflecting throughout on the environment, the wildlife, and his own life and experience. At the time of writing, several years after the trip itself, the Department of Reclamation is pushing for a series of dams on the Colorado, which Fletcher finds hard to fathom, and the closing chapters ruminate on just what it is that drives us to change our world in such dramatic and disastrous ways.

Fletcher went on to write many more books on ‘backpacking’, as it came to be known, but I can’t imagine that they top this one: part do-it-yourself manual, part nature writing, part adventure story. Much like the title, the book is equal parts timeless tale of time in the Canyon, as well a glimpse back into an era when hiking and exploring along the Colorado was a rare and glorious undertaking.

How the Canyon Became Grand. I picked this book up at North Rim bookstore on my first visit in 2006, buoyed by the recommendation of the clerk who called it ‘a fantastic read’. It was one of those rare books that (metaphorically) picks up a familiar object and reorients it, giving you some now-obvious insights that you’d never seen before. Author Stephen Pyne is a historian/fire scientist at Arizona State, and he traces the evolution of Western attitudes towards the Canyon, beginning with the initial amazement and bafflement of 16th century Spaniards. The Canyon overwhelmed their sense of perspective, leading to an abortive attempt to hike from the South Rim to Colorado, abandoned after several hours when they found themselves hardly any closer to the river’s edge. 250 years later, US Navy Lieutenant Joseph Ives, who after succeeding in locating the near mythical canyon, predicted that his expedition had "been the first, and will doubtless be the last, party of whites to visit this profitless locality."

How did it turn from perceived wasteland into icon of wilderness? Pyne’s claim is that an aesthetic for appreciating the canyon required the discovery of geologic time, which happened partly in the canyon itself. He traces this through the work of Powell, Gilbert, and other geologists, in parallel with the increasingly realistic paintings that eventually make sense of the canyon’s contradictory combination of broad vistas and nearly vertical walls.

Pyne’s book opens with the observations that this mile-deep gash in the earth remains invisible until you’re within yards of the rim’s edge. This ‘inverted mountain’ is hidden in a way that no mile-high vertical summit never is, and thus the Canyon never dominates the surrounding territory in a way that the nearly San Francisco Peaks do. But Pyne’s book gave me a great understanding of how it came to figure so significantly in our cultural and scientific understanding, rising from wasteland to jewel over less than a century.
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From journal Spring Break at the Canyon

Canyon Readings: The First Expeditions

by callen60

Ozarks, Missouri

October 24, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo In 1869, the Colorado River was truly the stuff of legends: it originated at the junction of the Grand and Green Rivers in northern Utah, and shortly thereafter disappeared from the map, emerging in the Gulf of Mexico 1,500 miles away. Spaniards had ...Read more In 1869, the Colorado River was truly the stuff of legends: it originated at the junction of the Grand and Green Rivers in northern Utah, and shortly thereafter disappeared from the map, emerging in the Gulf of Mexico 1,500 miles away. Spaniards had gaped at its extent, US Naval vessels had sailed some few miles upstream from the Gulf; missionaries and explorers had (with difficulty) crossed it, and no one knew what challenges it held as it carved its way deeper into the west’s sandstone and granite. John Wesley Powell, a self-taught scientist from Illinois, conceived the idea of the first ‘scientific’ exploration of the river and its surrounding topography, and cobbled together a crew of nine in 1869. They survived by the skin of their teeth, and Powell turned some of the lessons learned into a second expedition two years later. Two books give first-hand accounts of each: Powell’s own book largely (but, controversially, not exclusively) tells the story of the first trip, while the only full account of the second trip came three decades later from the youngest member of either expedition.

Exploration of the Colorado River and its Canyons.—This is John Wesley Powell’s classic account of the first end-to-end running of the river, from Green River ‘City’, Wyoming to the junction with the Grand River that was then considered to form the Colorado, to the party’s emergence in the Grand Wash several months later. Powell is educated, understated, and still worth reading. It may not give you an accurate read of the emotional or physical state of the troop, but he is unstinting on the relevant details. The geology, the geography, the anthropology are all here, although he’s frequently been faulted for blending together the original 1869 expedition and the subsequent 1871-2 into one account. After all, this was originally a government document, detailing for the Smithsonian Institution what had been learned about the river and the region, making more than good on the meager funding appropriated for the second trip. (The first expedition, run on a shoestring, was cobbled together by Powell from who-knows-where.)

Despite this ‘inaccuracy’, it’s still a good yarn, although it’s difficult to avoid the feeling that in those circumstances where disaster was near, Powell erred on the side of creating the impression that he was in control. To be fair, he is unsparing when the river or the canyon walls are the source of possible doom, and the fearlessness of this one-armed major is impressive. (A Civil War veteran, he lost an arm following an injury at Shiloh.) Later journals revealed George Bradley to be the journey’s hidden malinger: he bemoans the dwindling supplies, second guesses Powell’s leadership, and still saves Powell by lowering his own pants as the Major clings to a cliff with one good arm. But his accounts of the expeditions dwindling rations seem more realistic. Powell appears to steadfastly persevere in the face of these caloric difficulties, but then he wasn’t pulling the oars or carrying the cargo on the portages. In the end, Bradley soldiered on, while three others left the group only to be murdered by Shivwits Indians. Just six days later, their six remaining companions emerged in the Grand Wash, greeted by a group of Mormon fishermen who, like most of America, had given them up for dead based on a false, planted story of their demise.

Before Powell’s journey, almost nothing was known of the Colorado’s thousand-mile extent. No one had traveled it end to end; and it could be crossed at only two known places. Rumors of mythological proportion swirled around it: it dove underground for miles at a stretch; it was impassable due to whirlpools of unfathomable size; the rapids were miles long and unrunnable in any craft. In the end, Powell took three ordinary wooden boats and nine ordinary men, and with precious little planning, carved through the heart of the only uncharted territory in the U.S.

A Canyon Voyage—Frederick Dellenbaugh was a 17-year-old easterner with apparently little to recommend him for an expedition to the last uncharted section of the U.S. That hardly distinguished him from the rest of Powell’s second crew (or his first), but his account of that journey suggests that his energy, spirit, and sense of companionship were probably as apparent to Powell as they were was to me. His ability as an artist, which later led him to train in Europe, was primarily responsible for a spot on this second expedition to the Colorado, which was nearly guaranteed to be more successful than the first. It’s easy to imagine that this trip changed his life: he continued to combine his artistic abilities and his love for the outdoors and the unknown, heading to Alaska in 1899 with Harriman, Muir and the other elite of the emerging conservation movement, illustrating scores of articles and books about natural history, and eventually returning to the topic of the Canyon for a pair of well-received books in the first few years of the twentieth century.

A Canyon Voyage was written more than 30 years after his trip with Powell and companions, but it hardly seems like recollection at all. That’s largely due to its principal source: the extensive diaries that Dellenbaugh (like nearly every participant) kept of their experiences, which keeps the story completely in the present moment. The result is a wonderful balance of a daily account of the expedition from a resourceful, thoughtful, and fully engaged participant who hardly comes across as a teen. Perhaps that’s due to careful writing, but I doubt it. Dellenbaugh’s position, as well as his audience, are vastly different from Powell (whose first priority was to justify any monies he’d received, and procure additional support for the future), and so his account of the difficulties faced by the second team is more honest and detailed. But he was hardly a whiner or a shirker, and also leaves little doubt that the trials of the first trip greatly influenced Powell’s preparation for the 1871-2 expedition (which actually wintered and explored in the southwest before returning briefly to the Colorado). Along the way, they survive the constantly threatening waters of the pre-dam lower Colorado, worry about (but never encounter) the possible threats from hostile natives, come close to the end of the food stores as they await resupply at various points, and spend time with legendary characters Jacob Hamblin and John D. Lee, each of whom is a gracious and generous host. (This is especially notable in Lee’s case, as even then he was held responsible for the 1855 Mountain Meadows Massacre.)

I think Dellenbaugh’s book is actually the better read, but both are worthwhile. He pays more attention to personality and difficulty, and takes more joy (and pride) in the expedition’s repeated ability to succeed in the face of every challenge. He is affectionate and generous towards Powell, rarely second guessing him (and it was probably rarely necessary). It’s easy to see why this book was reprinted in 1926 and 1962, and remains available even today. (My copy was of the 1926 edition, which includes some amazing reproductions of maps of the region pre-Powell, and the new maps that Dellenbaugh helped produce in his role as assistant topographer.) Best of all, I just learned that the sting of the saddest sentence in the book has been removed. Dellenbaugh repeatedly describes the efforts made to climb the cliffs and photograph and sketch their surroundings, and yet after the fourth or fifth reference to his artistic endeavors, I began to wonder why they hadn’t been used to illustrate the volume. Midway through the book a footnote sadly notes that ‘the pencil sketches I made on this trip were taken to Washington, but I do not know what became of them.’ But during the research for his 1999 book The Wild Colorado: The True Adventures of Fred Dellenbaugh, 17, on the Second Powell expedition into the Grand Canyon, Richard Maurer found them miscataloged in a Smithsonian archive.

If you’re interested, A Canyon Voyage is available free for downloading at Project Gutenberg. Close

From journal Spring Break at the Canyon

Bucket List Item

by vampirefan

Charlotte, North Carolina

May 7, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo Ask many people to name things on their buck list (you know this list people have of things they want to see and do before they invariably "kick the bucket") and you will find visiting the Grand Canyon is on many of those lists. In Feb. of 2009 when ...Read more

From journal Surreal Experiences in Arizona

I Don't Know if 'Grand' Quite Covers It...

by Red Mezz

Inverness, Scotland, United Kingdom

April 27, 2010

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Best of IgoUgo Ok, so yes, there is more to Arizona than the Grand Canyon. A whole lot more, in fact every visit I've made has moved it higher up the list of one of my favourite places I've ever visited. And I fear that the fact that the Grand Canyon has been ...Read more

From journal The Grand Canyon, and a Whole Lot More...

The Big Ditch

by Mandan Lynn

Smithwick, South Dakota

October 3, 2009

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Best of IgoUgo Of course, there are probably 1,000 or more Grand Canyon reviews, and a bazillion Grand Canyon pictures. But these are mine.When I traveled overseas, listening to people talk about the things they wanted to see in the US made me realize how much I ...Read more

From journal An Arizona Wedding (and Everything in Between)

Revolutionary Mary: Hopi House and Other Wonders

by btwood2

Rodeo, New Mexico

April 3, 2007

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Best of IgoUgo The Grand Canyon is where many of this ground-breaking architect’s work can be found. Not only was Mary Jane Colter one of the first female architects in a male-dominated profession, but the structures she created were truly revolutionary. For 46 ...Read more The Grand Canyon is where many of this ground-breaking architect’s work can be found. Not only was Mary Jane Colter one of the first female architects in a male-dominated profession, but the structures she created were truly revolutionary. For 46 years she was the chief architect and decorator for Fred Harvey Company. Rather than imitate European styles of architecture, she sought inspiration from nature and local indigenous peoples.

Red stone and adobe Hopi House was designed by Colter after she’d visited pueblo-style dwellings in Old Oraibi. It was constructed mainly by Hopi Indians themselves. Indian arts and crafts were sold on the ground floor, and the Hopi artists, craftsmen, and dancers lived upstairs. Nowadays gorgeous Indian artwork is found inside on all levels of the multistory building. Corner fireplaces, wall niches, and low doors add to the cozy and fascinating interior. Ceilings are thatched with layers of saplings and timbers.

Lookout Studio’s walls of indigenous Kaibab limestone intentionally blend in with the Rim of the Canyon. Irregularity of features is the keyword in many of Colter’s creations, and at Lookout, both rooftop and chimney are made of oddly shaped stones, allowing desert plants to take root in soil between the cracks. Inside the studio, books and souvenirs are for sale, but the real attraction is climbing downstairs outside to the multi-leveled terraces to gaze out over the Canyon.

Bright Angel Lodge is Colter’s latest work in Grand Canyon Village, built in 1935. It replaced an old dilapidated turn-of-the-century hotel, but several historic cabins of Bright Angel Camp remain, most notably, Buckey O’Neill Cabin and Red Horse Station. Bright Angel Lodge was not built luxury-style as were many of the grand old national park hotels. Attractive yet functional, it was built for tourists with more modest incomes. One of Colter’s most famous creations, the Geologic Fireplace is found in the History Room. From the hearth built from ancient Colorado River bottom rocks, up strata by strata, are the geological layers of the Canyon represented in the ten feet to its top.

Hermit’s Rest, at the endpoint of Hermit’s Rest Route, is one of my favorite Colter buildings, slapdash in appearance only. Named for a prospector/miner/hermit who’d lived nearby, it’s similarly camouflaged as Lookout Studio. An earthen mound behind it slopes into the roof, sporting whimsical rubble-masonry chimneys. Indoors is souvenir and bookshop, and best of all, an open area with hide-covered chairs where you can sit and contemplate the cavernous stone fireplace.

The Watchtower at Desert View, on the east side of the Rim, is the other of my favorites. Colter designed it to resemble a prehistoric Puebloan tower. The ground floor has log ceiling and big picture windows. Stairs lead to the Hopi Room, with pictographs by Hopi artist Kabotie (Lomawywesa), depicting the Snake Legend and other stories. Other galleries contain reproduced petroglyphs by artist Fred Geary. The fourth and highest level is an observatory and the highest point on the South Rim at 7522 feet. Close

From journal Lure of the Canyon

The Grand Canyon

by onesundaymorning

Los Angeles, California

August 17, 2006

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Best of IgoUgo When I went to the Grand Canyon I stayed in Flagstaff, which is about 70 miles away. The drive there was so beautiful. However, be very careful of deer, insane drivers, and fire. One of the areas that I passed was easy to see where it was destroyed ...Read more When I went to the Grand Canyon I stayed in Flagstaff, which is about 70 miles away. The drive there was so beautiful. However, be very careful of deer, insane drivers, and fire. One of the areas that I passed was easy to see where it was destroyed by wildfire.

It took about an hour and a half to drive there.

Outside the Grand Canyon there is a small town where you can get hotels, airplane rides, food, and park passes. If you are planning to take plane rides, donkey trips, or stay in a hotel BOOK EARLY. These places fill up fast. Even in Flagstaff. I got my hotel really late, 2 days before I arrived, and I got the last room. When I arrived in the town I saw a bunch of cars on the side of the road and people running across the street. BE CAREFUL OF THIS!! People don’t pay attention here. If they see something cars will stop in the middle of the road or while crossing or cross without looking, so just be careful. Anyway, on the side were three huge elk, or what I was told were elk. I quickly turned into the parking lot of a hotel and got out of my car. I got within 20 feet of them to take pictures and they didn’t seem to mind.

From there I went to the park. I got my park pass form the ranger station for $20. It allows you to access the park for a week. Here they also give you a map of the park and list of the different activities that are taking place that day.

Needless to say that my first view of the Grand Canyon was breathtaking. There is no way to put into words the majesty of the park. My only regret is that I wasn’t able to view the canyon from the bottom.

I took the shuttle out to Hermits Rest stopping at several points along the way. The shuttle isn’t a tour bus, but it gives you information about the park and the different stops along the way. One of the advantages of getting there early is that there are less people trying to get on the bus. At one point I was at a stop completely by myself. This was by far the highlight of my trip; taking in the scenery with no people near was close to a religious experience. Around the park there are paths set up so you don’t have to take the bus, but you can walk along the rim. There is also maps set up so you know where you are and the distance between each bus stop.

The park offers many great lectures and walks from experienced park rangers, who not only know their stuff but also obviously love what they do and where they are. The topics cover a variety of subjects and some offer opportunities to hike along the trails.

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From journal The Grand Canyon

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