The beautiful road from Baguio to Bontoc

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Baguio to Bontoc, Bontoc, Philippines

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The road from Baguio to Bontoc

by perrytoo

London, United Kingdom

April 28, 2003

Best of IgoUgo The road from Baguio to Bontoc is as much a wonder as any of the official world heritage sites in the Philippines, and equally worth experiencing. It was hacked out of the side of the mountains by the Americans to provide access to the inland mines, ...Read more The road from Baguio to Bontoc is as much a wonder as any of the official world heritage sites in the Philippines, and equally worth experiencing. It was hacked out of the side of the mountains by the Americans to provide access to the inland mines, and zigzags up and over the Cordillera range without any of the benefits, or restrictions, of civic planning. There are many stretches of single-track road, where two vehicles cannot pass without one having to reverse back to the nearest farmyard, and the edge of the roadway is often barely a foot outside the bus’s tyres, with rarely any wall or fence between the road and the precipice. It was probably only ever intended for small numbers of utility vehicles. Fortunately, there is still little traffic, consisting mainly of occasional private cars and motor-cycles, and the few intrepid buses, which know every twist and turn in the road, and can spot trouble several valleys away. In many places the road is little better than a farm track, with the edges worn away by rain, even in the dry season. We were delayed an hour while a small gang of labourers laid temporary sleepers over a section which had dissolved down the cliff face (and another half hour while the driver and some able-bodied volunteers changed a tyre). I do not think this route would be passable after heavy rain. But the views are stupendous, unobstructed by roadside vegetation, of steep hills and valleys, terraced cultivation on the lower slopes, and raptors hovering above, hoping for someone to make a mistake. In the villages you can see women companionably washing clothes at the village tap, as their mothers must once have gathered by the stream in the valley below.

Don’t even think about this journey if you are of a nervous disposition, or don’t have a good head for heights. If you enjoy excitement, don’t miss it, and make sure you get a window seat on the bus. Either side will give you a breathtaking view, sometimes simultaneously, but the right side is marginally better.

From journal Up in the hills

The beautiful road from Baguio to Bontoc

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The road from Baguio to Bontoc