One mile on the outskirts of Bastogne on the Hill Mardasson before us rose a somber mammoth stone star. We gazed on 5 limbs, names of the 49 states, 5 sides to the crown and an inside crypt covered with murals by Fernand Leger, makings of a spectacular War Memorial.

Hugging my blazer closer to my chest with my head into the northeasterner I raised my head and stared at the gray monolith. Scuttling heavy clouds hung above the crypt and the star’s wings spread to the side as I read the state names. Florida, Alabama, New York, we read at the top of one spike of the star. Raw wind whistled through the supporting columns as we crept closer. On the east wing rose a spiral staircase to a cloudy view of the rugged battleground. We visited with grateful hearts and a small grasp of the enormity of the sacrifice and courage. Across an expansive car park crouched the Memorial’s companion, the star shaped Bastogne Historical Center.

Although not officially opened here on Mardasson Hill until May 31st, 1976, Mr. Franz Arend first founded the Historical Center in the city in 1950. Dodging a retired Army of Sherman Tanks, we found the Center housed the artifacts of real life of the Battle of the Bulge. We strolled from a fashionable display of uniforms, to cigarette packs, beer cans, weapons and letters to home. The main collection behind glass was fascinating in it’s reality. Life size dioramas of battlefield situations populated by figures of General Manteuffel and General "Ike" Eisenhower in jeeps flanked the entrance to the theater. Inside on a wide screen we cringed as the battle took place every 30 minutes with commentary of the military action by the opposing forces. The real life black and white footage of the offense and defense of Bastogne was haunting and chilling. Troops marched on frozen ruts in swirling snowy winds, and huddled behind tanks. They looked like abominable snowmen in their white camouflage.

Humbled and disappointed we could take no photographs inside; we visited the extensive gift shop where we found our own postcards, perused comic books of the war, flags and arty T-shirts with "Nuts City" slogan. Admission to the Center and gift shop was 7.50 Euros. Open Feb.-April 10-4:30, May-June 9:30-5, July- August 9:30-6, Sept. 9:30-5, Oct-Dec.10-4: 30. Website www.bastognehistoicalcenter.be. Better site www.trabel.com Go to Bastogne.

Bastogne has created one of the world’s finest war museums. This Museum is unique because it is based on the advise of the opposing battlefield commanders and those in roles of authority. There are complete collections of authentic uniforms, weapons and materials of both armies, displayed in life-like scenes of battle scenarios. Commentaries are in English, French, Dutch and German.

One of the highlights of this museum is a 30- minute film presentation, telling the story of the Battle of Bastogne with the best actual footage taken during the war.

The gift shop offers souvenirs and all sorts of collector’s items including World War II military books. You should allow a minimum of 1 hour for the tour.

The Mardasson Memorial was built in 1950 and stands as a symbol of gratitude by the Belgian population for the liberation of the country by the American Army and the Allies. It is an ultra-modern five-point star-shaped structure. As we stood in the center of this structure, surrounded by large column supporting the top portion and looked up, we could see it was completely open to the sky above.

Around the crown of the monument are the names of the 48 United States during WW II, and on the interior walls of each point of the star is an engraved plaque describing the history of the Battle. Each of the 10 plaques takes you through the journey of the Battle for Bastogne, giving positions, weather conditions, the attacks and counter-attacks, the struggle of the men to stay warm, how the citizens of the Ardennes shared food, blankets and fuel with them.

The first plaque reads:

• This Memorial and the earth surrounding are dedicated to the enduring friendship of the peoples of Belgium and the United States who forged a bond from their common struggle to defeat the enemy of all free peoples…

On the 10th plaque are these words:

• In the battle fought here, 76.890 American were killed, or wounded, or were marked missing. Seldom has more American blood been spilt in the course of a single battle.

  The number of Belgians who died or suffered wounds or great privation helping these friends from overseas in the common defense cannot be known….Of these dead and of all who fought here, the now living may attest the greatness of the deed only by increased devotion to the freedom for which they braved the fire.