Leaving Radium Hot Springs on the Banff-Radium Highway, I saw bighorn sheep, mountain goats, moose, and a host of other large and small mammals. Heading east, I came to the spot that marks not only the line between British Columbia and Alberta, but marks the great Continental Divide.

Crossing the Continental Divide is always a thrill for me, as I think of all the waters of North America flowing either West to the Pacific Ocean or East to the Atlantic Ocean. Displays at the picnic area describe this phenomenon, which may be seen in action as the creek separates mid-flow.

Where the Banff-Radium Highway intersected with Hwy 1, also known as the Tran-Canada Highway, I drove south through the Bow Valley. Although every mile brought new vistas, I continued on to the town of Banff, which sits on the banks of the Bow River.

In the fall of 1883, when three Canadian Pacific Railway construction workers stumbled across a cave containing hot springs on the eastern slopes of Alberta's Rocky Mountains, little did they know that they were opening up a world class destination. From that humble beginning was born Banff National Park, Canada's first national park and the world's third.

Spanning 2,564 square miles of valleys, mountains, glaciers, forests, meadows and rivers, Banff National Park is far bigger than I realized! The town of Banff has a fine history museum, worth a few hours of time. Another way to get an overview of the town of Banff is to ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain in a glass-enclosed, four-passenger gondola car and enjoy a 360-degree view of Banff and area. At the top are indoor and outdoor observation decks, a self-serve restaurant and interpretive boardwalk trails along the summit ridge. A gift shop and cafe are located in the lower terminal.

After several hours in Banff, I headed north on Hwy 1 to Lake Louise. I could have taken the slower but even more scenic Bow Valley Highway, but time did not allow for this side trip. I drove through the little town of Lake Louise, then through to the fork where the Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) branches off toward Jasper.

I turned left and continued up the hill to the lake. What an amazing sight! As the waters melt from the Victoria Glacier, they flow into the lake bed with a luminescent turquise color. Snow was still on the ground in June, and I had to walk carefully, as I was wearing sandals!

Cruising back to Fairmont in the evening, I arrived just as the sun was setting in the west. What a glorious ending to a perfect day.

I left my home on Puget Sound in Washington State early in the morning, cruised into a glorious sunrise and crossed the Cascade Mountains. Arriving in Coeur dAlene mid afternoon, I was delighted to have a long evening at Arrow Point Resort.

From Coeur dAlene to Fairmont Hot Springs in British Columbia, I followed Highway 95 through the rolling grain fields of the Okanogan country and into the mountains, following the Kooteney River. I crossed the border at Eastport, which becomes Kingsgate on the Canadian side.

Several hours later I arrived at Fairmont Hot Springs, my home for a week of day trips around Banff National Park. Set at the headwaters of the Columbia River, Fairmont Hot Springs offers something special year round. The main attraction are the springs themselves, consisting of several naturally warm pools.

After a pleasant night at Fairmont, I drove to Radium Hot Springs, a small town with a big hot spring. Here one can bathe in the "sacred waters of the mountains" just as indigenous peoples did long ago. You may even visit an ancient bathing pool. The waters here have traveled deep into the earth, returning to the surface hot and loaded with restorative natural minerals. The hot springs are naturally heated in the earth to about 103 degrees F. Swimsuits, towels, and lockers are available to rent, and a cafe is open all summer. Lifeguards are always on duty.

Continued in Part Two: Cruising Through Banff National Park

I have to admit that riding into camp knowing that coffee was on the stove and supper was being prepared was an added bonus. If we had been hiking not only would we be exhausted by hiking up the trails but we would have had to make camp and exist on freeze dried trail food, not roast beef, onion soup, bbq chicken, pie, etc. The other benefit of riding vs hiking is that bears don't consider a person on horseback as a potential dinner. When you are on a trail ride you bunk down at night in a canvas tent with a wooden floor secure in the knowledge that there is an electic fence between you and the bears. On horseback you can ride up past the treeline in less than 2 days and see vistas that would take days and days and days to hike to.

The best part though is that you do not need to be an expert outdoors person or rider to enjoy the experience. Trailriding can be enjoyed by almost anyone. The outfitters take care of you and the horses - all you need to do is have a good time and enjoy the ride.