It’s possible to decelerate the frenzied pace of Saigon on Dong Khoi Street, where shopping turns into fantasy candy. Though many shops exist also on Nguyen Hue and Le Loi Streets, Dong Khoi is reputed for anchoring the crème de la crème. Lam Son Square is a good starting point: embroidered tablecloths and napkins are big business here, and prices are incredibly reasonable. Expect to pay US$45 for a set of eight (napkins included with tablecloth). The variety is mind-numbing, but the search is definitely worthwhile. Custom-made silk garments can also be had for a song. The quality of silk is comparable to that of Singapore or Hong Kong, and the workmanship is deserving of praise. A green silk strapless dress has my name all over it in one of the shops there. A fine harmony of colors is present in the design: look at the photo below and imagine the infinite skill and patience to get those details right.
Along with garments, silk scarves, shawls, and purses will drive you mad. One shop above all had fabulous handbags using all sorts of raw materials, but in particular, the ones that featured mother of pearl breathed elegance. Ah, the lure of lacquered items! I thought I had seen miracles in Thailand, but these just had me totally gaga. Some have already made their way into our American furniture stores, but not all. Take note of the following name:
Bich Lien Lacquerwares
125A Dong Khoi Street
District 1, HCMC
Vases of all shapes, sizes, and colors, with lots of gold and silver predominant; serving bowls; lampshades; napkin holders; nested boxes; chargers; and what has now become the Vietnamese signature item, the bamboo plate and or vase. A must-see.
Art galleries are not scarce on this block, but not as ubiquitous as in Hanoi. Reproductions of well-known works are churned out on a daily basis - so much for copyright laws. Prices vary depending upon the type of canvas: ask whether it’s imported from Taiwan or local; the oil paints themselves also will play into the price. At times, the copier will take artistic license and introduce different hues than the original work. If you’ve ever wanted to own an original and just couldn’t afford it, this is the perfect answer. Van Gogh, Renoir, Botero, and Klimt can hang in your living room and have the neighbors wondering. Speaking of Van Gogh, there is an immense art workshop/gallery bearing his name at 114B Nguyen Hue St. in District 1. Expect to spend at least an hour going through the various rooms. The artwork can be rolled into a tube so that you can carry it with you, or can be shipped to the US, but this will offset any savings you might have realized making the purchase.
Don’t forget that the very French Paris Deli is here, as well as the wonderful Xuan Thu Bookshop .