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HobWahid
HobWahid
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Hasankeyf: Cave-Houses and the Tigris

  • August 8, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
Hasankeyf: Cave-Houses and the Tigris

Of all the places to visit in Southeastern Turkey, the tiny village of Hasankeyf, might just be the oddest. The village, once the capital of the brief Artuklu kindom (1102-1232), found great prominence due to its location along major trade routes and on the banks of Tigris River. During its heyday, Hasankeyf had a large fortress built upon a tower of rock overlooking the river, a stone arched bridge that spanned the with of the Tigris at over 100 meters as well as numerous palaces, mansions, and mosques with minarets that reached to the sky, but its fortunes slowly started to decline and now the tiny village is almost an open air monument to a brief period of glory.

Set on the banks of the Tigris, but hidden inside of a small ravine, Hasankeyf is certainly one of the more picturesque villages in the region. Adding to its picturesque charm are the numerous caves carved into the limestone that were once used for housing and storage by the residents of Hasankeyf. On the steep walk up the rock face to the citadel, you will pass a number of these along the way, some of them converted into small restaurants and tea houses where you can stop if things get a little exhausting. The citadel itself lies mostly in ruin today, but the views are fantastic. From the top of the rock precipice, you can look down at the Tigris river as it comes around the bend, slowly carving its way into the rock below the castle. From the top you can also see the few remaining pylons of the once glorious bridge that connected Hasankeyf to the other bank. It is also from here that you will get the best view down the deep ravine that cuts back into the countryside, speckled with various cave houses along the way.

Back down in the town center (all three blocks of it) you will find a towering minaret, the only thing remaining of a once proud mosque. Elegantly carved out of limestone, the minaret today has little specks of green grass poking out of its cracks. Across from the minaret also lies a small path that you can climb up (watch out for donkeys) and reach the remains of a palace. Although not terribly impressive in itself, the views again are superb.

Other than a large tomb back across the river, there is not much else to do in Hasankeyf. There is a small hotel where you can bunk up for the night if you wish, and you will find the locals (almost all Arabs) overtly friendly and willing to accommodate you. In fact, this is the other small pleasure of Hasankeyf. It is a village and has a village feel to it. So pull up a chair, drink some tea, play some backgammon, and enjoy it.

From journal Driving Eastern Turkey Part 1: Ankara - Van

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