Mandraki’s eastern side of the harbour is the more peaceful of the two, with its windmills and the fortress of Agios Nikolaos.
Originally, there were thirteen windmills along this stretch of harbour, but now, the three remaining examples stand side-by-side on the wider part of the walls and reflect the times when corn was ground at the harbour for the provision of bread-making. This ceased many years ago and the windmills had lain derelict, decaying in the salty air with their stone-work disintegrating. Renovation was started several years ago on the crumbling stone and now all are in first class condition with just the sails to be added at some time in the future.
It is this part of the harbour where the luxurious yachts and cruisers of the wealthy tie up, in stark juxtaposition to the small fishermen's craft, with their flaking paint and rusting winding gear that bobble alongside. The fisherman will sell their catches either in the agora or direct to the scores of restaurants and tavernas within the Old Town.
Other than the luxury pleasure craft tied up on this side, and the parked cars on the walls, very little has changed here in centuries. The fisherman make a reasonable living netting bream, mullet and snapper although some now find they can make more profit by taking holiday-makers around the coast for a few euros each.
Follow the walls for another couple of hundred yards to arrive at the majestic Fortress of Agios Nikolaos, the patron saint of fisherman. This was built in 1460 and is reminiscent of similar fortresses at Heraklion and Rethymno on the island of Crete. Constructed in warm, honey-coloured stone, it makes an imposing stance close to the harbour entrance and without doubt, fought out many a battle during Rhodes’ turbulent past. The fortress is currently closed to visitors whilst it undergoes serious renovation work, but it now also functions as a lighthouse to guide fishing boats and pleasure craft home in the winter storms that can rage in the south Aegean.