Peles Castle

3mttours
3mttours
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4 out of 5
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3
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Editor Pick

"How Not to Decorate" Romanian Style

  • April 23, 2009
  • Rated 4 of 5 by fizzytom from Newcastle upon Tyne, United Kingdom
"How Not to Decorate" Romanian Style

Romania's Bran Castle is understandably one of the country's most visited tourist attractions; the somewhat tenuous association with Vlad Dracul - aka Count Dracula - draws thousands of visitors to explore this rather attractive but (for me) slightly disappointing castle. But not far away in the town of Sinaia are two wonderful castles that are, in my opinion, much more interesting and worthwhile to visit.

The castles of Peles and Pelisor are right next to each other, for reasons I'll explain later, but it's a visit to the bigger, grander Peles Castle I'm reviewing here. The castle was originally built as a summer residence for King Carol I who was actually German; the guide who took us round the castle explained a little of how it came about that this German became king of Romania, a rather complicated history which is too intricate to explain here, suffice to say that in the design of Peles Castle, an attempt was made to reference the fairytale like castles of Bavaria. The Viennese architect Wilhelm Doderer was responsible for the initial part of the project and work started in 1873; when war broke out in 1877 building work had to be suspended and did not resume for two years. The work was finished in 1883. The style is basically German renaissance, one which was considered to be the choice of anyone with good taste at the time; however, there are touches of rococo and gothic design, as well as others, here and there and although you couldn't call it a hotch potch, it's certainly quite varied. Although it much less forbidding - partly because of its location in beautifully landscapes gardens - it has visual similarities with the famous Bavarian castle of Neuschwanstein.

A guided tour is the only way to explore the interior of the castle and is available in various languages. We bought our tickets at the ticket counter in the courtyard and we fortunate to find a tour in English was about to begin. When you go in you first have to don felt slippers that go over your shoes; don't worry about having a matching pair, it would take forever to find one. Just find two that fit over your shoes as quickly as you can or risk being left behind.

The tour doesn't take in all 170 plus rooms - only about 35 of them, alas - but you do get to see quite a lot and the tour is quite long and for that reason I wouldn't recommend it for youngsters. There are lots of stairs to climb and the felt shoes can make the going quite treacherous on some of the floor surfaces; it struck me as downright dangerous in parts and a few people had to grab onto friends and family to keep themselves upright.
Should you be up for this ordeal you will be truly rewarded with a wealth of exquisite paintings, furnishings and artefacts from around the world. Not only were the best materials used but craftsmen were brought in from all over Europe to carry out specialist work. There is a Moorish Room, a French Room, a Turkish Room and so on; as you would expect each one is decorated and furnished with the very best that money could buy. There is a magnificent collection of hand-painted glass from Switzerland while the Turkish and Middle Eastern rugs are breath-taking in their detail. I was less interested in the vast collection of arms and armour than anything else and I was pleased that the tour did not spend too long on this section.

The interior is in many respects over the top with lavish elements such as a hall of mirrors and the dining room ceiling which is clad in leather from Cordoba; to have such design elements these days would be construed as tacky and tasteless and to some extent the decor here is too. However there are plenty of worthwhile things to see such as the collections of paintings and ceramics. I was very interested to see the Florentine Room because I had heard it contained a work by Gustav Klimt: it's a copy of an earlier work by Vasari and Klimt reproduced it here on the ceiling when he was still an art student. I was not disappointed.

My favourite room was the Turkish room: the walls are covered with silk tapestries while ornate footstools and chairs are upholstered with more vivid red needlework and Anatolian copper work urns form the centrepieces on the tables. To say this was sumptuous would be a massive understatement.

The interior of the palace is really a sustained visual assault. I found many of the contents fascinating but it is a little disappointing in that it barely reflects Romanian culture or history at all as it crams in so many global influences. By the end of the tour I was quite overwhelmed by the sheer number of exhibits and their variety though I was pleased to have explored the interior. The guide was excellent and answered lots of questions as well as presenting an overview of the history of he building and the exhibits. One compliant would be that the group was too large - over twenty people - and it was sometimes difficult to hear what the guide was saying; this of course depends on whether there are impolite people on your tour.

Something that is great about Peles is that you need not pay an admission fee unless you actually want to see the interior but you can go into the grounds and get a good look at the exterior of the castle and the murals in the courtyard as well as the superb Romanelli sculptures in the gardens. The somewhat smaller and more tasteful Pelisor Castle stands in the same grounds and as you come in through the gate (look out for the bedraggled looking bear) there are some craft stalls selling handmade items such as linens and knitted goods. We stayed in a hotel within the grounds which was formerly the quarters for the palace servants; it was a good deal and included breakfast and one meal at the restaurant in the same building. Non-residents can also eat here, and a small selection of traditional Romanian dishes are on the menu. Nearer to the castles there is a small cafe which was heaving with visitors. This serves a range of drinks and a few snacks; most people were buying drinks but eating their own food at the tables and it was impossible to find anywhere to sit (as well as being very noisy) so we walked a little way down the hill where there are a few cafes and bars on the way into town.

Peles Castle is a visually stunning building that certainly warrants at least a look. The interior has some interesting exhibits but I would recommend viewing the interior of Pelisor instead which is more tasteful and contains slightly more interesting displays. There is also the added interest to British tourists from the connection to Queen Marie, who was English by birth; she did not want to live in Peles when she married King Carol's heir, Ferdinand, and so the smaller more human Pelisor was built for the couple and subsequently furnished to Marie's taste.

The Romanian royals lived at the palace until 1947 when the communists seized power in Romania. It is especially ironic to know that Ceausescu didn't much care for Peles Castle since the his own project, the unashamedly extravagant Place of the People in Bucharest is similarly crammed with all manner of ostentation; apparently he didn't spend much time at Peles for which we should probably be thankful. The castle was declared a museum in the 1950s but was suddenly closed by Ceausescu in the 1970s and, after some restoration work, re-opened in 1990.

The two properties are just a few minutes from the centre of Sinaia and an hour or so from the larger town of Brasov.

June - September
Tuesday - Sunday 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM

October - May
Wednesday to Sunday 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM

Peles Castle is closed all of November.

The admission fee for adults equates to something in the region of 2 Euro 50 and there is an additional charge for photography

From journal Sinaia - a town with hidden treasures

Editor Pick

A Very Grandiose Structure in the Middle of the Carpathians!

  • February 25, 2009
  • Rated 4 of 5 by dangaroo from Warsaw, Poland
Hidden away in the South-Eastern Carpathians, a short distance away from the mountain resort Sinaia, lies this dramatically and in some ways over the top building - Peles Castle. The entrance easily recognisable by a beer drinking blind bear on a chain (may well be dead or his status changed by the entrance to the EU by now)

Before the entrance to main gates are several stalls, old ladies selling cheese, clothing, wooden nic nacs and the typical fare of any such tourist attractions in the Carpathians, whether it be Poland, Ukraine or Romania. The cheese is delicious, mind! This glamorous old school building lies in magnificent grounds, grassy fields and a bit of forest - there are street dogs (albeit quite tubby ones) as far as the eye can see..either relaxing on the grass or trying to cause trouble with each other..aah it's a dog's life!

A nice little pub/snack bar stands near the entrance, the beer isn't particularly over-priced and whilst the communist style service leaves little to desire - it's worth it all for the nice view of the building. I've been here twice, once I paid entrance to go inside the building and the second time not. Personally, I prefer the grounds - the over the top nature of the architecture and artefacts inside don't really do it for me. Whilst nearby Bran castle manages to remain quite quaint, Peles goes over the board with a huge collection of armory (4000 weapons!), ivory, glass, leather, rugs from the finest sources, painted stained glass and a large collection of paintings from the finest contemporary artists of the time.

The castle built between 1875 and 1914 is impressively grandiose, using gold, brass, marble and just about any expensive commodity that King Carol I of Romania could get his hands on! The estimated cost of building it is around $120 million dollars and sections of it were used as tourist villas for the wealthy and aristocratic. Visitors included the extremely powerful Kaiser Franz Josef and in more recent times Richard Nixon and Yasser Arafat. There is an additional structure nearby, the more quaint Pelisor - a chateau made for King Ferdinand I and Queen Marie, this is more to my liking..although I have to say that I absolutely love the grounds and even Peles castle from the outside is pretty cool.

I'm sure that some will marvel at the insides, it's definitely impressive but it's not really to my taste! Entrance is 15 Lei with additional charges for using a camera. Some rooms are off limit but you'll definitely get value for money.

From journal A Little Look into Transylvania

Editor Pick

The Peles Castle

  • July 15, 2005
  • Rated 5 of 5 by 3mttours from Bucharest, Romania
The Peles Castle

There are many things to see in Sinaia. The monastery is the very first building of the area, built in 1695 by the Count Mihai Cantacuzino.

Later, at the beginning of the 20th century, a casino had been built in Sinaia. Guests were enough – Sinaia was not only the king’s summer residence, but also an elegant meeting point for Bucharest’s smart set, as it is nowadays with Monte Carlo or St. Moritz for Western Europe. After World War II, with the advent of the communist takeover, most people became equally poor. Moreover, the new moral branded casinos as a sign of capitalistic decay, so it was turned into a socialistic house of culture. Some years later, Ceauşescu found that it was a pity, that the nice building should be henceforth a wretched house of culture, so he turned it into his own residence. Fortunately, he brought very few modifications to its inner outlook.

A paved road leads from the casino to the Peleş Castle. The building’s works began in 1875 and ended in 1914 – it belongs to the newest castles of Europe. The castle had, from the very beginning, electric light, running water, and central heating.

The main staircase of massive oak wood leads to the Reception Hall. The latter is as high as the castle, and on sunny days, it is lit by natural daylight, both its ceiling and the roof being made of glass. It can be closed in bad weather, as it has an opening mechanism operated by an electrical engine. On the walls, wooden mosaics depict castles in Germany belonging to the Hohenzollern, King Carol’s ancestors. A statue of a medieval knight wearing a beard recalls of one of the ancestors. The knight should have taken the part of the emperor in a war against the pope. He should have been sentenced by the victorious pope to wear beard and an iron chain around his neck as a sign of his obedience towards the pope and the church. The Reception Hall is an art museum in itself.

The Room of Weapons shows European weapons from the 15th to the 19th centuries, most of them made in German workshops. Here one can see among so many weapons a beautifully decorated sword of execution with the calligraphic inscription, "To the one executed with this sword is the entry in Paradise guaranteed."

Stained glass with themes from German and Romanian legends; paintings after the tales of Carmen Silva, Queen Elisabeth’s penname (she was a poet); and some beautiful, barely known paintings of Gustav Klimt decorate the inside of the castle.

From journal Sinaia

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