Asklipio

GB from Devizes
GB from Devizes
First Reviewer
4 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
3
Reviews
38
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Editor Pick

Asklipio Church

  • July 1, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by MichaelJM from Nottingham, England
Asklipio is a one street village in the hills to the south west of Lardos. When I say one street I mean that unless you are driving a 4x4 you can only access by the one tarmac track that leads only to Asklipio.

But a pleasant surprise awaited us because there were a number of things to see. Firstly we stopped in the square and visited the Holy Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It was built in 1060 and has become a major sightseeing venue because of the beautiful interior.

An elderly guy was on ticket duty (it costs one euro to enter the church and the museum) and he was the source of information. His English is not good but even so we were able to have a bit of a chat, about the church. He told me that the frescoes had held up well (I paraphrase of course) until someone decided that the original plaster on the dome needed to be chiselled off and replaced. It looked good he explained, but unfortunately it let in the moisture (again I paraphrase) so the frescoes became damaged with the damp and mildew. We could see what he meant because although the dome’s frescoes had an ‘aged character’ - they were clearly damaged so much so that it was difficult to distinguish any detail whatsoever. Others, however, were still in tact and although much faded over time we were able to distinguish the story of Adam and Eve, the final entry into Jerusalem, the betrayal and the rising again. If I knew my bible better I reckon I could have seen much more.

Now one of the great things is that no attempt appears to have been made to restore and although there are swathes of missing painting that gives the whole fresco a greater credibility. The smell of incense hung heavily in this church and two great and elaborate chandeliers hung from the nave.

Although these had been ‘electrified’ it was not too hard to imagine how spectacular this church must have been when all the candles were flickering in the bright, pristine paintings.

It would truly have been an awesome sight. At either side of the nave were plain vaulted chapels both from which you had glimpses of the churches artwork. Overall this place had the wow factor.

Outside the detached bell tower gives both perfect views and I guess is well placed to inform villages of pending church services or notable events.

The museum albeit very small has an interesting array of religious artefacts but check out the building itself. Looking up on the inside of this seemingly innocuous building is a fantastic original reeded ceiling, not a common way of ‘finishing off’ a building in days gone by but reserved for special places, buildings to confirm wealth or as in this case, respect for a higher deity.

From journal Around Asklipio

Editor Pick

Asklipio Castle

  • July 1, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by MichaelJM from Nottingham, England
The castle is well signed and in all the road is not too bad. If you are driving you will need to be a little cautious and avoid the potholes and there is one particular steep bit where shale slips away from under the car. However, we made it to the top (and lived to tell the tale!) and parked the car in a makeshift car park.

A short climb up a precariously uneven staircase and we’re inside the ruined walls of Askipio castle – the castle of the knights. Access to the castle is open and free and it is only ruins, but let your imagination run a little and the small fortification is revealed before your eyes. You need to be a bit of a mountain goat to make it to the battlements (indeed there is plenty of evidence to support the fact that goats regularly make the journey) but it is well worth the struggle as the views from up here are as good as you get anywhere else on the island.

A dry river bed can be seen meandering its way to the coast and the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary looks pretty nestling in the centre of the small village below us. Way in the distance we can see Rhodes coastline and re-track some of the route that we’d undertaken to get here. There are no barriers up here and there is a need to be a wee bit cautious, as a stumble on the top of the walls would have catastrophic outcomes.

As I clambered back down I saw evidence of the lower floor of the castle – these looked remarkably intact (from this vantage point) but they are not accessible at all. We descend the castle staircase (still in place) and take one last look at the castle of the knights before making our way (somewhat gingerly) back down to the village to check out a couple more churches.

We first went to see the tiniest church, the church of Archangel Michael, at the foot of the village, down a very difficult track. From here there was a good view of the castle, its shadow almost seems to overcast the village. This plain church supports a small well-maintained cemetery but I did not explore that too closely.

Back on the road we see Asklipio’ third church (I think the Church of Niklosias). Inside only one original fresco remains in tact and that is to the Saint whose name the church carries, but the rest of the walls have been restored in a very poor, primitive fashion. You can still see, in places, the outline of the original frescoes and I could not help thinking that they had been better leaving it alone rather than trying to bring it back to life. The view from this church is only quite good giving a panorama of the surrounding countryside with the Asklipio valley stretching out towards Lardos Bay.

From journal Around Asklipio

Editor Pick

A Walk Around The Back Alleys of Asklipeio

  • July 15, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by GB from Devizes from Devizes, United Kingdom
A Walk Around The Back Alleys of Asklipeio

Like most rural Greek villages, Asklipeio relies upon its weekly market to supplement what is available from the smattering of local stores. The nearest place of any size is Lardos, which, whilst only 15 miles away, is too far for many locals to travel on their rickety mopeds and beat-up pick-up trucks.

Whilst I was visiting the village, a battered old VW combi pulled into the square, and its owner proceeded to unload boxes of shoes to display on the ground. He sold several pairs, so obviously he had a good trade in the village. After his last sale, everything was piled back into the van and off he drove to his next port-of-call.

I spied but one fruit-and-vegetable shop in the village laden high with mouth-watering watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, and grapes, all of which were as fresh as you will ever see and had probably been picked that very morning.

Investigating the back streets and alleys, I found a couple of real ouzeries, (no tourists here), a tatty looking "snak" bar, and a restaurant that appeared to be more of a lady’s front room of her home that had been opened to the public.

Everywhere I walked, I was greeted with kalimera, such was the spirit and happiness of these local folk. There was no pressure for me to go inside and sit down; let’s face it, with just a handful of visitors each day, one more meal isn’t going to make or break them.

I walked by old houses decorated with the traditional colours of white-washed walls and cobalt blue shutters and doors and realised that this was still a little piece of old Rhodes. Wooden gazebos occupied every front yard, resplendent with hibiscus, geraniums, bougainvilleas, and azaleas. People looked happy as they went about their daily chores, needing little more than that which Mother Nature already provided an abundance of with her sunshine and fruits.

I walked past the tiny workshop of the local tinker and watched a while as he soldered up holes in old water pots that were surely years past their best judging by the dents and scratches. But the moral here is, "Why buy a new one if the old one can be mended?" I asked if I could take his picture, and with a gracious wave of his hand, he agreed to my request. I almost felt like I ought to buy a pot from him, but I got the impression that they were all repair jobs for the villagers and that none would be for sale.

I enjoyed my stroll around this lovely old village and felt honoured to have been welcomed by all those I encountered. Such is the essence of filoxenia, the love of the foreigner, conveyed in a single word that means both stranger and guest, surely a message for us all?

From journal Asklipeio - A Traditional Rhodian Village

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