After a day filled with bus travel, a harried border crossing, rapid foreign language recall, and a brief recovery period, we were delighted to find entertainment waiting just under our hotel window. We heard the drums first, then singing. From our balcony, we got a better look at the procession passing below.
The street was packed with people, a huge clump moving slowly forward together, almost shuffling. In the middle of the mob, a statue of Christ on the cross was carried by somber-looking men.
We dressed and followed the crowd to the town square, which was a small park just outside a grand white church. As night fell, mass was held to a packed park.
With worship concluded, there was a change to more of a party atmosphere. So much food! Fried and sugared and grilled – just like the festivals of home. But I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen glow lights and clowns and cotton candy at a religious event at home. And for sure not the fireworks! We’re talking a 4th of July caliber sparkly celebration – but instead of the blasts set off at a distance and seen high overhead, there were up close and personal. So close, in fact, that at one point we all had to run for it to get out of the way!
It was in burning sparks that I saw the name of the festival for the first time. It was a celebration of Cristo Negro de Esquipulas. Only after I returned home did I get a chance to look up the history of Cristo Negro. In 1595, it is said that artist Quirio Catano carved an image of crucified Christ. The commissioners of the piece wanted an image with dark skin like themselves, but without a very dark wood available, he made a light-skinned Christ instead. The piece was stored for many years, and it is said that when it was removed from storage, the skin of the Christ (but not his clothing) had turned dark brown.
Of course, other accounts claim that the statue has been colored dark over time due to candles and incense burning in the church where he is displayed.
Regardless of how he became dark-skinned, Cristo Negro became the object at the center of great pilgrimages starting in 1737. During this year, the Archbishop of Guatemala visited the statue in Esquipulas and left cured of a chronic ailment. People have been traveling great distances ever since to receive the healing powers of the statue.
This night, our first in Guatemala, was one of the best and most memorable times we had in our one month of travels in the country. It was spontaneous and fun, and we met local people willing to chat with us, tried great food, and were almost the only tourists in attendance.