Did you know that the Loire Valley has over 300 chateaux? This one
was the envy of all.
The first owner we know about was Giles Berthelot, who
acquired the estate with the Lordship of Azay in 1515 and reconstructed a
mansion built by an unknown. Berthelot was Treasurer of France under
Francois I, and he and his wife Philippe did such a good job of designing the
chateau that the King was envious and accused him of misappropriating
funds, or so the story goes. He was forced to abandon the estate unfinished. Next
owner was Marquis Charles de Biencourt, who added Renaissance touches, especially
the grand staircase showing as the huge bay on the front facade.The huge,
romantic park.
We enjoyed the park as much as the castle! Townspeople were
walking their dogs, and we intended to return in the evening, since we were staying
two blocks away. The scene was idyllic, an English-style park built by Biencourt
after 1810. Some of the trees he imported included Sequoia and Ginko, so a touch of
grandeur is added to the French countryside scene.
A
Museum of Royal History.
Heads of the kings and queens of France are sculpted
into the grand staircase. Portraits of Francois I, Henry III, and Louise of Lorraine are
displayed, as well as a magnificent full-length painting of Louis XIII. Others are too
numerous to mention, but a portrait of Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henry II and Dame
of Chenonceau, in her bath should be noted by anyone touring the castle at Chenonceau.
My favorite, since it reminded me of a history lesson I’d forgotten, is the painting of
Camp du Drap D’Or.
The gold blob on the left is Henry VIII of England arriving at an early heads-of-state
meeting with Francois I. They pitched tents, had jousting tournaments, and reached
agreements about matters of state at the "Camp of the Gold Cloth," and the painting tells
the story. Royal beds (2) are also displayed, as each owner of the chateau was
obligated to keep a bedchamber for his king. Louis XIII also visited (1610), and his
bedroom is decorated with early Gobelin tapestries and now a late seventeenth-century
bed.
Tapestries from several centuries and countries.
All rooms with tapestries are
dimly lighted in order to preserve them, but they are astoundingly well preserved. Some
were Berthelot’s, including a fine example of Brussels weavers from the 1500’s, still
gothic with Biblical scenes. Others depict late seventeenth-century hunting scenes, my
favorite, since they pertain to the Loire Valley. Others still are Italianate. The castle has
been called "a museum of tapestries," and few rooms are without them.
Before
we say "Goodbye."
Kitchens on the ground floor are also interesting. Stone
sinks and ribbed brick ceilings with mythical moldings are always interesting, and these
ceilings are original, from Berthelot’s day. We lingered on the grounds admiring other
groupings of buildings not on the tour, and then we walked a narrow old street back to
the main square and on to Chenonceau.