Editor Pick
Slow Boat on the Nam Ou
- May 22, 2005
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Hun Ohm from small town, Massachusetts
Slow Boat on the Nam Ou
By Hun Ohm
Most travelers will eventually find themselves in Louang Phabang, drawn by the city’s regal mystique. However, once you have taken in the beauty of the former royal capital, it will be time to move on, and you will face numerous choices. Road to Phonsavan, flight back to Bangkok -- the list is long. Nevertheless, if you have the time and desire to visit some of the more secluded areas of Laos, we recommend taking a slow boat up the Nam Ou to the village of Nong Khiaw. The scenery along the way is lovely, at times spectacular, and you begin to get a sense of what Laos is like outside of the heavy tourist traffic areas.
The Boat
We had seen a few of the larger "barges" on the Nam Ou during our stay in Louang Phabang, and at first we thought one of those would bring us up north to Nong Khiaw. We were mistaken. Our boat was a long but narrow (5 feet across) wooden affair with wood plank benches lining the sides, a low roof, and not much else. Nothing fancy, but largely river-worthy, and as we made it to the more shallow stretches of the river, we realized it was ideal for navigating the northern waters. Boats reputedly leave once daily, but check the board at the Navigation Office the day prior to traveling to be certain (a ticket costs approximately $6.50).
The Ride
In our opinion, travel by slow boat is a must in Laos. After all, in a landlocked country such as Laos, rivers are very much the lifeline of the country, and extended river trips will give you an idea of the nation’s "pulse," if you will. However, bony behinds beware: the boat’s plank-benches quickly assert their sturdiness, so you may consider bringing or fashioning some sort of cushion to ease the 7- to 8-hour journey. Also, we traveled in December, which was dry but surprisingly cool in the morning. Make sure you have some warm clothing (a waterproof shell will probably be best), as the wind and occasional splashes can sometimes make this a rather refreshing ride. Bring some food and water to snack on. Also, bathroom breaks were largely "secluded spots along the bank" affairs, so plan accordingly.
The Downside
Be prepared for occasional breakdowns (our first occurred approximately 30 minutes into the ride). Also, it is a noisy journey, and long, so if you have limited time, you might consider taking the bus from Louang Phabang to Nong Khiaw. You miss the river scenery, but you save a few hours.
The Fortuitous Perks
As you travel through Laos, you will likely meet a number of people from incredibly diverse backgrounds. We met some great fellow sojourners during this leg of river travel: two Dutch midwives and a Swiss couple living in Spain who are full-time travelers and now good friends.
From journal The Notorious Route 7 in Laos, and Other Tales