Lamanai means 'submerged crocodile' in the language of the ancient Maya, and describes the series of temples and buildings that lie alongside the New River Lagoon. It’s about an hour’s river cruise from Orange Walk, through dense patches of jungle. Taking the bus will be a four-hour journey, but you pass through some of the most bizarre scenery in Belize.
The region is called Shipyard and is the home of the Mennonite people, a religious sect like the Amish who farm the area without the use of machines. The men are tall and bearded, and the women wear old-fashioned frocks. The whole scene looks like it’s from the Little House on the Prairie TV series. They speak German.
Lamanai is one of the oldest Mayan sites, and was continually inhabited for thousands of years up to the present day. Descendents of the original Maya people live in the town of Indian Church nearby. The church itself dates from the time of the Spanish arrival in Central America.
There is a small stall at the site that sells snacks and drinks, as well as souvenirs. There was some work going on clearing jungle to build a new jetty and visitor centre, but I don't know if this has been completed yet. There is a small museum of relics by the stall, and the guides will be able to tell you a little about them, but otherwise it can be quite dull.
The temples are spectacular. The 1st is called Jaguar, and it is possible to climb to the top. All that can be seen is dense jungle canopy and the lagoon, despite the fact there are another four temples close by! Walking through the forest you come across the others, rising up through a jumble of trees and vines. At other Mayan sites ground has often been cleared to expose the plazas that would lie between the temples, but this would spoil the Indiana Jones feeling that you get here! The mask temple has a giant face on the front ("the Big Head," as I christened it), with its eyes half closed apparently in a dream. There is a trail through the jungle to other temples, via the old church and a sugar-mill built by the Spanish, eventually leading into Indian Church.
Because the site is surrounded by jungle, Lamanai is excellent for wildlife. There is a troop of black howler monkeys (baboon in Belizean dialect) living in the forest, and they pass over the site in the afternoon. They make an amazing racket (a cross between thunder and a gargling drain) to mark their territory. There are a wide range of birds, including vultures and toucans. You wonder why toucans don't overbalance and fall due to their unusual beaks. You might see some snakes in the jungle, and the poisonous fer-de-lance is found here, so be careful where you walk. The mozzies are huge and vicious so ensure you have long-sleeved shirts and trousers for the evening.