A 10 minute bus ride from downtown brought me to Maison de Picassiette. This small house was built in the 30s by Raymond Isidore for his wife and three children. The three room house was very plain and simple because the family didn’t have a lot of money. During his walks in the surrounding fields Raymond’s eye was attracted to the colourful pieces of broken crockery and glassware that had been discarded by others. Maybe he liked the pretty colours or maybe he was into recycling but Raymond decided he could use these fragments to decorate the interior of his home. One thing led to another and pretty soon he had developed an obsession to decorate every square inch of the house – inside and out. Although the neighbours thought he was crazy Raymond continued his work right up until 1964 when he died.Now managed by the city of Chartres, this little gem is tucked away in a residential subdivision and surrounded by much larger and grander homes. From the bus stop it is a few minute walk uphill to the entrance. Books are available for sale in the ticket office (€8) that tell the story of Raymond and his house but the best way to visit is just to take your time and explore.
The site is a tribute to his vision and dedication. Not only the exterior but every square inch inside the house - windows, walls and furniture is covered with ceramic and glass pieces. This included not only the bed, table, chairs and bureau but the stove which continued to be used to make meals for the family. Unfortunately the interior of the house was closed to the public for cleaning and repair but the wide open windows provided views into the three rooms.
The outside was even more colourful if possible, partly due to the garden that was filled with tulips and other spring flowers when I was there in April. An attached chapel at the back of the house and a courtyard between the two featured a mosaic of Chartres with the cathedral as its focal point. Surrounding the property is a short wall – all mosaic’d of course.
The house is open between April 1 and October 31 from 10 a.m. to noon and again from 2 p.m. until 6 p.m., every day except Tuesday and Sunday mornings. It is closed for a week from 1 to 8 May. Admission is €4.57. To get to Maison Picassiette take bus #4 (direction Madeleine) across from the train station.