Poking along on Highway 90 east in search of the beach, we spied a brown-and-white sign in the median, "Gulf Islands National Seashore"--this way, to the south, toward the water. I turned inquisitively to Robert, "You know the coast, is it a state park with a beach?" I begged. What it is, is a national park established in 1971, stretching 150 miles along the Gulf Coast from West Ship Island, Mississippi to eastern Santa Rosa Island, Florida. He shrugged and made a quick left turn to follow the sign. Across the oncoming traffic we entered a lush gateway with a huge "Department of the Interior" sign posted and a curving drive ahead.
Our path snaked deeper into dense shrubs and trees, when suddenly the road made a sharp right turn and we were staring at the Colmer Visitor Center. We had just entered the Mississippi Mainland District portion of the park. The outer barrier islands (West Ship, East Ship, Horn, and Petit Bois) 10 miles offshore can only be reached by boat, from Gulfport to West Ship Island -- $18.
But we had Davis Bayou. What a delightful surprise! We jumped from the car and raced toward the water, to find it was only marshland--oops! No beach. However, it did have a wonderful paved walking path, and out over the swampy bayou, raised wooden walkways finally leading to the rear of the visitor center. Closer to the water, a dock led over the marsh to a wooden gazebo with benches. Great place to rest, fish, admire the view of the coast islands, and let the gulf breeze brush away the sand or deerflies.
Now what are deerflies? Well, they are somewhat akin to horseflies. Robert was exploring the picnic grounds and began flailing his arms around his head and racing toward the parking lot. He rushed toward the visitor center and I investigated. As I entered the dense overgrowth of trees along the self-guided nature trail near the concealed restrooms, something buzzed near me and I swatted, and then there was another and another, and then I took off my cap and swatted, and that was worse. So I also escaped to the visitor center.
Inside I found Robert happily watching an orientation film in the auditorium. I browsed wildlife exhibits and relaxed in the lounge in the back. I found the water fountains and restroom, and also the drink machine. Out back I discovered scads of multi-leveled decking surrounding the center, giving access to dense tree growth and an expansive view of the saw-grass marshland. No concessions! At the main desk, a knowledgeable rangerette filled us in with all the information about the campgrounds, picnic shelters, ball field, boat launch, and access to the Gulf barrier islands that are the largest part of the National Seashore. That is where the white-sand beaches are! The visitor center is open daily March to October 8:30am-5pm, November to February 8am-4:30pm. Admission is free.