October 25, 2004
If you don’t mind heights, go up to the lighthouse for unimpeded views across the 20-mile delta, where you can just make out the Buenos Aires skyline on a clear day. There are all kinds of shops and small museums to poke around in, and the town itself is exceedingly easy to navigate, as it is centered on the ruins of the old fort, which lies next to a tall double-towered church.
By all means, have lunch in one of the restaurants here. I had thought eating at the Four Seasons was a bargain (well, compared to its resorts in the Caribbean or the US), but lunch in Colonia was amazing—a wonderful four-course meal with a great salad, a seafood appetizer, a local beef dish, and a dessert, along with a pitcher of Sangria, was about $12.
The round-trip cost about $70 (including tip for the driver), leaving Carmelo at around 8:30am and returning at around 4:30pm.
From journal The Other Uruguay--Upriver in Carmelo